Previously published at Moneylife
Little Lhasa in India
August 25, 2011 09:21 PM |
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik
McLeod Ganj is one of the fascinating parts of Himachal Pradesh with an elegant mixture of British heritage and Tibetan Buddhist tradition
The north Indian state of Himachal Pradesh is a colourful tapestry of different ethnic groups, religions and landscape, which vary from the rice-growing plains of Palampur to the snow-covered peaks of Lahaul and Spiti. It takes several trips to Himachal to see some of this incredible diversity. One of the fascinating corners of this mountain state, which can easily be reached, is McLeod Ganj.
Named after Sir Donald McLeod, lieutenant- governor of Punjab from 1865 to 1870 and one of the founders of the Punjab University, McLeod Ganj is the headquarters of the exiled Tibetan government and home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
The town is divided into two distinct parts. The lower town, called Dharamshala, has civil offices and business establishments with courts and the main market, while the upper part, 9km away, comprises McLeod Ganj and Forsyth Ganj. Since 1960, when it became the headquarters of the Dalai Lama, Dharamshala has risen to international fame as ‘The Little Lhasa in India’.
With the backdrop of the snow-clad Dhauladhar Mountains of the Lower Himalaya, McLeod Ganj is set amidst forests of pine, Himalayan oak and deodar.
The tallest peak of the Dhauladhar Range, Hanuman Tibba, about 18,500feet (5,639metre) high, lies immediately behind it. Originally home of the semi-nomadic Gaddi tribe, the settlement developed as a British garrison in the mid-19th century and continued to grow steadily in the coming years. By 1904, McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala had become important centres of trade, commerce and administration for the entire Kangra district and the town developed as a hill station where the British spent the hot summers. Lord Elgin, viceroy of British India (1861–63), liked the area so much that he even suggested at one point, that it be made the summer capital of India instead of Shimla. The British heritage of McLeod Ganj, overlaid by the strong Tibetan influence acquired since 1960 when the Dalai Lama settled here following his escape from Tibet, is what gives the town its interesting character and unique mix of cultural sites to explore.
At the end of a pleasant drive on a narrow road through forested slopes lies the part of town called Forsyth Ganj. The Anglican Church of Saint John in the Wilderness was built here in 1852. Set amidst a deodar forest, and built in neo-Gothic architectural style, the church is known for its Belgian stained-glass windows donated by Lady Elgin (Mary Lambton), wife of Lord Elgin, whose grave is located in the churchyard. The final resting place of Lord Elgin is located in the yard of the church. Bruce Elgin, Earl of Kincardine, served as governor-general of Canada and later became governor-general and viceroy of India in 1861. He died of a heart attack in November 1863, and was buried here.
Numerous Elgin Roads and Elgin Streets in Canada, India and Hong Kong are named after him, as is the Lord Elgin Hotel in Ottawa. Lord Elgin’s summer residence, called Mortimer House, was acquired by the government of India to become the official residence of the Dalai Lama. Though the main church structure survived a 1905 Kangra earthquake, the church spire and bell tower were destroyed. The earthquake killed close to 20,000 people and destroyed most buildings in Kangra, McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala. Later, a new bell, built in 1915 by Mears and Stainbank, was brought from England and installed outside in the compound of the church but the bell tower and spire were never rebuilt.
From a piece of British India, I went on to visit the colourful, lively legacy of Tibetan presence in McLeod Ganj. An important example of the Tibetan architecture in the town is the Tsuglakhang or the Dalai Lama’s temple. The magnificent images of the Shakyamuni Buddha, Avalokitesvara, the Tibetan deity of compassion, and that of Padmasambhava, who brought tantric teachings to Tibet in the eighth century, are located here. The temple also has a collection of sacred Buddhists texts called the Khagyur based on the teachings of the Buddha and a collection of works on Tibetan art, philosophy, literature, astrology and medicine. For reasons of security, photography is restricted in this area. Within easy walking distance is the Tibetan Museum, established with the aim of presenting Tibet’s history and vision for the future through texts, photographs and videos.
The Chonor House is the best place to stay, conveniently located near the main Tibetan temple adjacent to the Dalai Lama’s residence in the heart of McLeod Ganj. Set amidst tall deodar trees, the Chonor House is removed from the hustle and bustle of the town. It was designed and built by British architect David Porter in a style intended to blend with the natural environment of the hills overlooking the Kangra valley. Each of the 11 rooms is beautifully decorated according to a unique Tibetan theme.
Not far from the lower town of Dharamshala, in a place known as Sidhpur, is located the magnificent complex of buildings known as the Norbulingka, set amidst beautiful gardens, surrounded by green fields, standing against a backdrop of the snow-capped Dhauladhar Mountains. The original Norbulingka, located in the outskirts of Lhasa, was the summer palace of the Dalai Lamas who spent part of the year there amidst the gardens and fountains well removed from the austere surroundings of the Potala Palace. Founded by the Department of Religion and Culture of the Central Tibetan Administration, the present Norbulingka Institute contains the Centre for Arts, the Academy of Tibetan Culture, the Literary and Cultural Research Centre and the library and publications department. The Norbulingka Foundation was established in 1995 for preservation of the ancient art practices of Tibet, especially crafts.
Built according to a traditional Tibetan style, the Centre for Arts offers training in Tibetan statue-making, thangka painting, printing, appliqué and tailoring, wood carving, wood and metal craft. The Academy of Tibetan Culture, established in 1997, offers a six-year course of higher education in traditional Tibetan studies. The Norbulingka Institute also has the two-storied ‘Seat of Happiness Temple’ built in 1985 and set amidst the Japanese-inspired Norbulingka gardens. It is known for its 1,173 murals of the Buddha, frescoes of all the Dalai Lamas and drawings chronicling the life of the 14th Dalai Lama. In the main hall stands the 12-feet high gilded copper statue of the Buddha Shakyamuni made by the Institute’s master statue-maker, Pemba Dorje, and one of the largest such statues outside Tibet.
Around the temple are workshops of artisans and apprentices who produce various crafts sold at the Norbulingka gift shop for the benefit of Tibetan refugees. The landscapers have made use of the existing rocks, trees, flowing water and the terracing of the land, to create a semblance of a Japanese garden around the Institute buildings where nature flourishes and tranquillity prevails. Also within the premises is the Losel Doll Museum with a unique collection of 150 costumed dolls depicting the regional, official and monastic costumes of Tibet. In the nearby Tibetan Children’s Village school, children who have escaped from Tibet are provided with a Tibetan-orientated education, clothes, food and healthcare.
For a quick getaway to an easily accessible corner of the Himalayas where you can experience a variety of cultures and cuisines, McLeod Ganj is without parallel.
Why Go There: Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit McLeod Ganj as you can get the clearest views and pleasant temperatures. It can be wet during the monsoon months. In winter, you can enjoy better views of snow-capped mountains and clear blue skies.
Getting There: By air from Delhi to Gaggal airport and then by road to Dharamshala. By train to Pathankot and then a two-hour drive by taxi to Dharamshala.
Where To Stay: Travel arrangements in McLeod Ganj can be made through the Himachal Tourism Development Corporation’s website or directly through the hotels. The Chonor House can be contacted by phone or e-mail to request booking on 01892/22-1468, 01892/22-1006, or e-mail chonorhs@norbulingka.org.
Little Lhasa in India
August 25, 2011 09:21 PM |
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik
McLeod Ganj is one of the fascinating parts of Himachal Pradesh with an elegant mixture of British heritage and Tibetan Buddhist tradition
The north Indian state of Himachal Pradesh is a colourful tapestry of different ethnic groups, religions and landscape, which vary from the rice-growing plains of Palampur to the snow-covered peaks of Lahaul and Spiti. It takes several trips to Himachal to see some of this incredible diversity. One of the fascinating corners of this mountain state, which can easily be reached, is McLeod Ganj.
Named after Sir Donald McLeod, lieutenant- governor of Punjab from 1865 to 1870 and one of the founders of the Punjab University, McLeod Ganj is the headquarters of the exiled Tibetan government and home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
The town is divided into two distinct parts. The lower town, called Dharamshala, has civil offices and business establishments with courts and the main market, while the upper part, 9km away, comprises McLeod Ganj and Forsyth Ganj. Since 1960, when it became the headquarters of the Dalai Lama, Dharamshala has risen to international fame as ‘The Little Lhasa in India’.
With the backdrop of the snow-clad Dhauladhar Mountains of the Lower Himalaya, McLeod Ganj is set amidst forests of pine, Himalayan oak and deodar.
The tallest peak of the Dhauladhar Range, Hanuman Tibba, about 18,500feet (5,639metre) high, lies immediately behind it. Originally home of the semi-nomadic Gaddi tribe, the settlement developed as a British garrison in the mid-19th century and continued to grow steadily in the coming years. By 1904, McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala had become important centres of trade, commerce and administration for the entire Kangra district and the town developed as a hill station where the British spent the hot summers. Lord Elgin, viceroy of British India (1861–63), liked the area so much that he even suggested at one point, that it be made the summer capital of India instead of Shimla. The British heritage of McLeod Ganj, overlaid by the strong Tibetan influence acquired since 1960 when the Dalai Lama settled here following his escape from Tibet, is what gives the town its interesting character and unique mix of cultural sites to explore.
At the end of a pleasant drive on a narrow road through forested slopes lies the part of town called Forsyth Ganj. The Anglican Church of Saint John in the Wilderness was built here in 1852. Set amidst a deodar forest, and built in neo-Gothic architectural style, the church is known for its Belgian stained-glass windows donated by Lady Elgin (Mary Lambton), wife of Lord Elgin, whose grave is located in the churchyard. The final resting place of Lord Elgin is located in the yard of the church. Bruce Elgin, Earl of Kincardine, served as governor-general of Canada and later became governor-general and viceroy of India in 1861. He died of a heart attack in November 1863, and was buried here.
Numerous Elgin Roads and Elgin Streets in Canada, India and Hong Kong are named after him, as is the Lord Elgin Hotel in Ottawa. Lord Elgin’s summer residence, called Mortimer House, was acquired by the government of India to become the official residence of the Dalai Lama. Though the main church structure survived a 1905 Kangra earthquake, the church spire and bell tower were destroyed. The earthquake killed close to 20,000 people and destroyed most buildings in Kangra, McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala. Later, a new bell, built in 1915 by Mears and Stainbank, was brought from England and installed outside in the compound of the church but the bell tower and spire were never rebuilt.
From a piece of British India, I went on to visit the colourful, lively legacy of Tibetan presence in McLeod Ganj. An important example of the Tibetan architecture in the town is the Tsuglakhang or the Dalai Lama’s temple. The magnificent images of the Shakyamuni Buddha, Avalokitesvara, the Tibetan deity of compassion, and that of Padmasambhava, who brought tantric teachings to Tibet in the eighth century, are located here. The temple also has a collection of sacred Buddhists texts called the Khagyur based on the teachings of the Buddha and a collection of works on Tibetan art, philosophy, literature, astrology and medicine. For reasons of security, photography is restricted in this area. Within easy walking distance is the Tibetan Museum, established with the aim of presenting Tibet’s history and vision for the future through texts, photographs and videos.
The Chonor House is the best place to stay, conveniently located near the main Tibetan temple adjacent to the Dalai Lama’s residence in the heart of McLeod Ganj. Set amidst tall deodar trees, the Chonor House is removed from the hustle and bustle of the town. It was designed and built by British architect David Porter in a style intended to blend with the natural environment of the hills overlooking the Kangra valley. Each of the 11 rooms is beautifully decorated according to a unique Tibetan theme.
Not far from the lower town of Dharamshala, in a place known as Sidhpur, is located the magnificent complex of buildings known as the Norbulingka, set amidst beautiful gardens, surrounded by green fields, standing against a backdrop of the snow-capped Dhauladhar Mountains. The original Norbulingka, located in the outskirts of Lhasa, was the summer palace of the Dalai Lamas who spent part of the year there amidst the gardens and fountains well removed from the austere surroundings of the Potala Palace. Founded by the Department of Religion and Culture of the Central Tibetan Administration, the present Norbulingka Institute contains the Centre for Arts, the Academy of Tibetan Culture, the Literary and Cultural Research Centre and the library and publications department. The Norbulingka Foundation was established in 1995 for preservation of the ancient art practices of Tibet, especially crafts.
Built according to a traditional Tibetan style, the Centre for Arts offers training in Tibetan statue-making, thangka painting, printing, appliqué and tailoring, wood carving, wood and metal craft. The Academy of Tibetan Culture, established in 1997, offers a six-year course of higher education in traditional Tibetan studies. The Norbulingka Institute also has the two-storied ‘Seat of Happiness Temple’ built in 1985 and set amidst the Japanese-inspired Norbulingka gardens. It is known for its 1,173 murals of the Buddha, frescoes of all the Dalai Lamas and drawings chronicling the life of the 14th Dalai Lama. In the main hall stands the 12-feet high gilded copper statue of the Buddha Shakyamuni made by the Institute’s master statue-maker, Pemba Dorje, and one of the largest such statues outside Tibet.
Around the temple are workshops of artisans and apprentices who produce various crafts sold at the Norbulingka gift shop for the benefit of Tibetan refugees. The landscapers have made use of the existing rocks, trees, flowing water and the terracing of the land, to create a semblance of a Japanese garden around the Institute buildings where nature flourishes and tranquillity prevails. Also within the premises is the Losel Doll Museum with a unique collection of 150 costumed dolls depicting the regional, official and monastic costumes of Tibet. In the nearby Tibetan Children’s Village school, children who have escaped from Tibet are provided with a Tibetan-orientated education, clothes, food and healthcare.
For a quick getaway to an easily accessible corner of the Himalayas where you can experience a variety of cultures and cuisines, McLeod Ganj is without parallel.
Why Go There: Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit McLeod Ganj as you can get the clearest views and pleasant temperatures. It can be wet during the monsoon months. In winter, you can enjoy better views of snow-capped mountains and clear blue skies.
Getting There: By air from Delhi to Gaggal airport and then by road to Dharamshala. By train to Pathankot and then a two-hour drive by taxi to Dharamshala.
Where To Stay: Travel arrangements in McLeod Ganj can be made through the Himachal Tourism Development Corporation’s website or directly through the hotels. The Chonor House can be contacted by phone or e-mail to request booking on 01892/22-1468, 01892/22-1006, or e-mail chonorhs@norbulingka.org.
You have provided good information about McLeod Ganj in Himachal Pradesh. it is a very beautiful place to visit in Himachal Pradesh. Himachal Tourism is the best place for tourism in India.
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