BANGKOK: beyond the bright lights

Previously published at MoneyLife

Bangkok: Beyond the bright lights
June 16, 2011 09:02 PM | 
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik

Jaideep Mukerji stays clear of the well-trodden tourist paths of Thailand’s bustling capital and takes a leisurely river cruise—for a completely refreshing, different and adventurous look at one of Asia’s largest cities

A city that is visited by thousands upon thousands of travellers from India holds out a lot to discover and experience, in addition to the basic city-sightseeing offered by the package tour companies. Travel to Bangkok during the Songkran festival, usually in mid-April, and then spend time exploring the lesser-known parts of the city by canal boat and one will have a completely different and refreshing look at one of South East Asia’s largest cities.

 One of the high spots of the Thai calendar is the annual New Year or Songkran celebration, a national holiday that lasts for three days and falls on or around 13th April when the sun moves into Aries. The word Songkran originates from Sanskrit and means ‘beginning of the solar year’. The holiday-loving Thais, therefore, get to celebrate New Year three times each year—the Western New Year on 1st January, the Chinese New Year in February and the Thai New Year in April. Before Thailand adopted the Roman calendar in 1940, Songkran was calculated on the basis of solar calendar which varied from one year to the next. Now, the Songkran days in Bangkok are fixed and are from 13th to 15th April of every year.

 Having fun is a big part of Thai culture, and having fun amidst the scorching heat of April is no exception. The hottest month of the year sees the entire country go crazy in friendly water-fights and street parties that last nearly a week. During the Songkran festival, most office buildings, banks as well as family-run shops and restaurants shut down completely, although shopping malls usually remain open. Thai street food, always delicious, becomes an even more attractive option during this time since most restaurants are closed.

Songkran is also Thailand’s major festival for family reunions, temple visits and annual house-cleaning. Many Thais utilise the holidays for spending time with families and friends. Traditionally, Thais perform the ‘Rod Nam Dum Hua’ ritual on the first day of Songkran which is officially the National Elderly Day. During the ritual, younger people pour scented water into the hands of their parents and elders as a mark of respect and receive the blessings of the older folk.
 The second day of Songkran is officially the National Family Day. Thais get up early and give alms to Buddhist monks and then, ideally, spend the rest of the day with the family. An important religious ritual on Songkran is ‘Bathing the Buddha image’ during which devout Buddhists pour fragrant water over Buddha statues, both at the temple and at home.


Traditionally, Thais would politely pour a bowl of water on members of the family, their close friends and neighbours to symbolically wash off all misfortunes in the past year and to welcome the New Year. Now, as Songkran has taken a more raucous and modern note, the bowl of water has gradually become a bucket or a garden hose or even, water-guns, while the holiday spirit is now shared amongst local residents and tourists alike. The festival, somewhat like India’s Holi, has turned into a water-throwing funfest in which anyone and everyone is liable to get a thorough drenching from young people waiting in ambush at street corners—a blessed relief during the hottest month of the year.

Traditionally, during the festival period, Thais visit temples to offer food to the monks and to participate in bathing ceremonies for Buddha images. Another custom is the releasing of small fish into rivers and canals. This merit-making act is thought to come from the old practice of collecting small fish from dried-out pools, to keep and later release back into the wild.

 Traffic in Bangkok, usually a nightmare, is at its quietest during Songkran, as many of the city’s inhabitants usually return to their upcountry homes for the long holidays and the roads are remarkably traffic-free. Travelling to Bangkok during this fun-filled festival period, I spent a couple of days exploring Bangkok’s early history, when life in the capital still revolved around the Chao Phraya River and its offshoot khlongs (canals). While modernisation has changed the Chao Phraya riverscape, adding gleaming high rises and imposing concrete structures to the picture, the khlongs retain much of their charming character.



A leisurely river cruise through Bangkok’s equivalent of the back alleys allows you to view the city’s traditional neighbourhoods with children bathing, elderly people in balconies watching life go by and couples sitting on steps dipping their feet in the cool waters of the canal. The Chao Phraya River provides a great way to get around, since many of the major tourist sites are easily accessible from the River. In Bangkok, the River is a major transportation artery for a network of river buses, cross-river ferries and water taxis, also known as ‘long-tails’. More than a dozen boat lines operate regular commuter services on the rivers and canals of the city. The Chao Phraya River Express operates a regular boat service up and down the river. Like a public bus on the water, the fares are extremely cheap and you can get just about anywhere for 11 baht to 25 baht (about 16 to 37 in Indian rupees) depending on the distance. There are piers next to many of the riverside hotels. The new service, specifically for tourists, is the ‘Chao Phraya Tourist Boat’ which uses newer and more comfortable boats serving just those piers of interest to tourists. The price structure is different and you must purchase a one-day river pass for 150 baht (about $5) which entitles you to an unlimited number of trips on the same day.

The Grand Palace situated on the main Chao Phraya River is an obvious starting point for a river-based sightseeing tour of Bangkok’s highlights. Started in 1782, the complex is a collection of buildings that span over 1.5 sq km; within the grounds is the Wat Phra Kaeo, known for the famous statue of the Emerald Buddha. Sitting on a golden altar, it is carved from green jade and is only about 30 inches high. Do not miss the fearsome looking yakshas that guard the entrance to important parts of the palace and golden statues of the kinnara, a celestial musician, half-human and half-bird, adopted from Buddhist and Hindu mythology. Although Thailand’s King Bhumibol does not reside here any longer, the Palace is still very much in use as many royal rituals are performed here by the King every year. Other royal ceremonies celebrated here are coronations, royal funerals, marriages and state banquets. The Palace grounds also contain the offices and buildings of the Bureau of The Royal Household, the Office of the Private Secretary to the King and Royal Institute of Thailand.

 The Wat Arun or the Temple of the Dawn is another major temple easily accessible from the water route. Wat Arun was built in the early 19th century and its tower is the highest in Thailand—measuring 265 ft. The tower, or prang, is covered with pieces of Chinese porcelain and its beauty is best appreciated from the river at a distance. The temple gets its name from the Indian god of dawn, Aruna. Amongst the superb statues of the Buddha inside are some that record the most important stages of his life, at birth (north), in meditation (east), preaching his first sermon (south) and entering Nirvana (west).

 Another temple that I found impressive, although completely away from the regular tourist trail, was the Wat Suthat, a royal temple classified as a first grade temple, one of only six such temples in Thailand. Started by King Rama I in 1807, the temple was not completed until the reign of King Rama III in 1847. The main temple of Wat Suthat contains the Sakyamuni Buddha’s image and the surrounding galleries are lined with golden Buddhas.

 Give a go-by to the well-trodden tourist trails, buy yourself a one-day Tourist Boat river pass and explore the cultural treasures located along the canals and waterways of Bangkok. Discover a city that has so much to offer, particularly if you travel during the Songkran festival.

When To Go:
Although a popular tourist destination, most visitors skim Bangkok’s cultural surface and limit themselves to what the mass tour operators sell them. There is a wealth of cultural sites and treasures to explore in this city using cheap and convenient public transport.

Getting There:
There are direct flights to Bangkok from each of India’s metro cities. There are convenient connections from most other cities in India.

Visas:
Indian nationals are given a visa on arrival at the airport, provided their stay is for 15 days or less and they have confirmed prepaid hotel reservations and a return air ticket. There is a visa fee payable.

Where To Stay:
It is easy to book Bangkok hotels online. (The official Thai Tourism website has a wealth of information and includes a hotel-booking facility: http://www.tourismthailand.org/). Language is not a problem, as English is commonly spoken.