ITALY:- Art Cities

Previously published at MoneyLife

Italy: Art Cities
October 08, 2011 10:27 AM | 
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik

Located in southern Europe and bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, Italy is a country full of rich history and culture that amazes the world

If there is one country that combines the best of history, culture and landscapes together with superlative cuisine and shopping, it is Italy. I have visited Italy several times and the country never ceases to amaze me with its profusion of historic sites reflecting the grand architectural legacy of the Greco-Roman Empires. Italy has 47 World Heritage Sites—the highest in any country in the world—and Italian museums contain some of mankind’s best examples of art and sculpture. In this (and subsequent) article, I will take you on a brief journey through the better-known and some lesser-known Italian cities.



Venice: Described as one of Europe’s most romantic cities, Venice was historically the capital of the independent Venetian Republic and has been known as the ‘City of Masks’ and the ‘City of Canals’. Venice has been one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations since the 18th century. It is also one of Europe’s most beautiful cities of art. Since the 1980s, medieval traditions, like the Carnival of Venice, have been revived and the city has become a major centre of international conferences and film festivals, such as the prestigious Venice Film Festival which attract visitors from all over the world.

Venice is best explored by foot or by vaporetto—the public water bus system that operates along the Grand Canal. Start your tour by walking along the maze of canals, sidewalks and bridges that are unique to Venice, until you arrive in St Mark’s Square (the Piazza San Marco), surrounded by elegant, historic buildings. Napoleon called Piazza San Marco, ‘the drawing room of Europe’. The Square is dominated by St Mark’s Basilica, a Byzantine masterpiece on one side. The construction of this cathedral began in 830AD to house the tomb of St Mark whose relics were smuggled from Alexandria (Egypt) and brought here. The inside walls are encrusted with precious art, rare marbles and magnificent mosaics. Behind the altar is the famous gold altarpiece, ‘Palla d’Oro’ which is one of the finest examples of craftsmanship in gold.



Next to St Mark’s is the Doge’s Palace. This former seat of Venetian power, the Palace has the second largest wooden room in Europe. As you walk through the council rooms, of interest is Tintoretto’s Paradise over the Grand Council Chamber—reportedly the largest oil painting in the world. The Palace is connected to the old prison by the ‘Bridge of Sighs’. The name, given by Lord Byron in the 19th century, comes from the suggestion that prisoners would sigh at their final view of beautiful Venice through the window before being taken down to their cells.

The banks of Venice’s Grand Canal are lined with more than 170 buildings, most of which date back to the 13th to 18th century and demonstrate the art created by the nobles of the Republic of Venice. Venetian families spared no expense to show off their wealth by building their palazzos along the Grand Canal. The churches along the Canal include the basilica of Santa Maria della Salute. Centuries-old traditional festivities, such as the Regatta of the gondola boats, are held every year along the Canal. The gondola is a traditional, flat-bottomed Venetian rowing boat, well suited to local conditions which, for centuries, was the chief means of transportation. Now, these iconic boats are used by tourists and Venetians as a convenient taxi-service.

While on your walking tour, cross the famous Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal and spend time in the market that is busy with locals buying fruit and vegetables brought in from the mainland and fresh fish caught in the Adriatic. The present stone bridge with rows of shops on either side was completed in 1591 and is one of the architectural icons of Venice. Venice’s historic Jewish Quarter in Dorsoduro is well worth a visit as well. Take the vaporetto, to the island of Murano located about 1.5km north of Venice, famous for its glassmaking. In 1291, the glassmakers in Venice were forced to move to Murano due to the risk of causing fires in the city while blowing molten glass. In the following century, the island became famous for glass beads and mirrors and, for a while, Murano was the main glass producer in Europe. Later, the island came to be known for chandeliers (in the 18th century); glassmaking still remains the island’s main industry.

Milan: Staying in northern Italy, take the Eurocity train to Milan, recognised as the world’s fashion and design capital. The city has an ancient cultural heritage and legacy, vibrant nightlife and is particularly famous for its musical and operatic traditions (it is the birthplace of several composers, such as Giuseppe Verdi) and theatres (such as the Teatro alla Scala). Milan is also well known for several important museums, universities, palaces, churches and two renowned football teams, namely, AC Milan and FC Internazionale Milano.

Like most Italian cities, the main sites of interest are within walking distance from Milan’s central plaza, the Piazza del Duomo, dominated by the grand cathedral (the Duomo), the fourth largest cathedral in the world and, by far, the largest in Italy. Construction of the Gothic design cathedral began in 1386 and the last details of the cathedral were finished only in January 1965. This date is considered to be the end of a process which took six centuries, although, even now, some un-carved blocks remain to be completed as statues.
Immediately beside the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in the Piazza del Duomo is reputed to be the world’s first shopping mall. The Galleria connects two of Milan’s most famous landmarks: the Duomo and the Teatro alla Scala, but the Galleria is a landmark on its own right. Now, more than 130 years since its inauguration, the four-story arcade includes elegant shops selling most things from haute couture and jewellery to books and paintings. The Galleria is famous as being home to some of the oldest shops and restaurants in Milan, such as the historic Biffi Caffé founded in 1867, the first Milanese café to install electric lighting (in 1882), and the famous Bernasconi silverware store. Today, the Galleria is the site for many luxury brands including Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton.

A short walk away is the Piazza della Scala, the pedestrian central square of Milan with Leonardo Da Vinci’s statue at its centre. Named after the renowned Teatro alla Scala opera house, one of the leading opera and ballet theatres in the world, it includes both the opera house and the La Scala Museum, dedicated to the history of La Scala and opera, in general. Over the past 200 years, most of the world’s greatest operatic artistes and singers have appeared at the La Scala.

Another walk takes you to the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, yet another in the UNESCO World Heritage list. The Church contains the famous mural of the Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci which is in the refectory of the convent. During World War-II, the night of 15 August 1943, bombs dropped by British and American planes hit the Church and the convent. Much of the refectory was destroyed, but some walls survived, including the one that holds the Last Supper which had been sand-bagged for protection.

Why Go There: Italy is a country that combines the best of history, culture and landscapes along with superlative cuisine and shopping. It has historic sites reflecting the grand architectural legacy of the Greek and Roman Empires and 47 World Heritage Sites, the highest in any country in the world.

Getting There: Almost all European airlines offer flights to Venice using their hubs of London, Paris or Frankfurt. China Airlines has direct flights from Delhi to Rome. Train tickets for travel within Italy can be bought online at http://www.trenitalia.com/.

Visas: Tourist (Schengen) visas are available from the Italian Embassy in New Delhi and Italian Consulates elsewhere. Full details available at http://www.vfs-italy.co.in/ or by telephoning the Italy Visa Call Centre (at 120-6641090).

Where To Stay: Hotels in Italy can easily be booked through one of the hotel-booking portals like bedsonline.com, hotelbeds.com or travelocity.com. To plan your vacation, visit www.italia.it for a wealth of information; for maps and brochures email the Italian Tourist Office in Mumbai at mumbai@enit.it

LAS VEGAS and GRAND CANYONs:- Mankind and Nature's Greatest Creations

Previously published at MoneyLife

Mankind and nature’s grand creations
August 11, 2011 09:46 PM |
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik

Visited by millions of people every year, Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon represent the grandest of spectacles that mankind and nature can provide

Over the past many months, I have shared with you a number of travel destinations that may be thought of as being away from mainstream tourist trails. Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon are anything but that; both are visited by millions of people every year and each represents the grandest of spectacles that mankind and nature can provide. Experiencing the glitter of Las Vegas’ famous ‘Strip’ allows one to appreciate the solitude of a remote mountain valley from a completely different perspective.



In 1829, a trading caravan of 60 men led by a Mexican merchant Antonio Armijo was charged with establishing a trade route from what was then Mexican territory to Los Angeles. By following a route through a tributary of the Colorado River, the caravan came upon a green valley amidst the arid desert. The travellers named the area ‘Las Vegas’ which was Spanish for ‘The Meadows’.

Las Vegas has seen unbelievable expansion since it emerged from the desert just over 100 years ago. In the early 20th century, water from natural wells was piped into the town, providing a reliable source of fresh water as well as the means for additional growth. The increased availability of water in the area allowed Las Vegas to become a water stop, first for horse-drawn wagon trains and, later, for trains, on the trail between Los Angeles in California and regions to the east.



In 1931, work started on building the well-known Hoover Dam on the Colorado River; the Las Vegas population increased from around 5,000 to 25,000, with most of the newcomers looking for a job on the dam building site. However, the workforce consisted entirely of males from across America and this created a market for large-scale entertainment. A combination of local Las Vegas business owners, Mormon financiers and Mafia crime-lords helped develop the casinos and showgirl theatres to entertain the largely male dam construction workers.

Now, the sights and sounds of Las Vegas are enjoyed by millions of visitors every year. They stay in some of the most glamorous, unique, themed hotels in the world. They eat at five-star restaurants and expensive buffets. They play at casinos, pools, health spas and golf courses. The state is also relatively liberal in handing out marriage permits—Vegas is a major marriage destination. The Las Vegas Strip is where every visitor wants to go. The Strip is a nickname for the road named Las Vegas Boulevard and is ground zero for the shows, nightlife, luxurious hotels, exciting casinos and all the best things to do in Vegas that make the Strip famous the world over. Study a Las Vegas Strip map before your visit and familiarise yourself with the highlights to be found. The Stratosphere is an observation tower at the north end of Las Vegas Boulevard and has great views of the Las Vegas Strip hotels when they light up at night.

It is easy to be dazzled by Vegas; the sheer number of things to see and do seems overwhelming at first. With the large number of celebrities who come to Vegas frequently, people-watching can be the main entertainment. And there are no better ‘spot people’ than the Mon Ami Gabi at the Paris Hotel, a French bistro right on the Strip, directly across the street from the famous Bellagio fountains or the Bar & Grill at Planet Hollywood, from where you can scan CityCenter, the Bellagio and the Strip all at once.

Walking the Strip is a must for any first-timer and, as you cruise, check out the signs for the famous Cirque du Soleil shows. Besides being home to the top hotels, casinos and resorts, the Las Vegas Strip is a hub for other attractions like the Showcase Mall, Thomas & Mack, Sands Expo and the Fashion Show Mall that draw visitors to their world-class shops and designer boutiques.

Thirty mega hotels and resorts, with a variety of themes, pride themselves on being strategically situated near the Las Vegas Strip. Billions of dollars have been invested in the creation of this hotel wonderland; each of the major Las Vegas hotels tries to outdo the other in style and magnificence. From the pirate-themed Treasure Island, the Mirage Hotel with its artificial erupting volcanoes, to the elegance of the Venetian, a walk down the Strip wows the visitor.

The Bellagio, Venetian, Caesars Palace and the Luxor are representative of the luxury that you will find along the Las Vegas Strip. The names alone tell you what to expect; names like New York, Luxor, Paris, Orleans, Monte Carlo and Circus Circus make it clear what you can find. Other hotels have replicas of famous monuments like the Eiffel Tower, the ancient temples of Egypt, the canals of Venice or the New York skyline including a mock Empire State Building. All Las Vegas hotels feature shows with international music stars, the best of Broadway musicals and the world’s best magicians.

While in Las Vegas, you almost have to gamble a little; many hotels offer free lessons for the beginner. Until recently, Las Vegas used to be famous for buffets; now, it’s more about celebrity chefs. Still, the buffet at the Bellagio with its international selections, the Cravings Buffet at the Mirage Hotel with 11 live cooking stations or the Rio Hotel’s Carnival World Buffet are experiences in their own right. Caesars Entertainment offers a 24-hour buffet pass valid at seven different hotel buffets while MGM Mirage has an all-day pass valid at other hotels, all priced between $35-$45.

If you are seeking adventure, then SkyJump at the Stratosphere which, at 108 stories, is the longest controlled freefall of its kind, the Fremont Street Flightlinez where you get hooked to a harness and zip right over the crowds on Fremont Street or swimming with the sharks at the Shark Reef Aquarium at Mandalay Bay, are all possibilities.

Once you have had enough of the manmade attractions in Las Vegas, take the daily sightseeing coach for the five-hour long drive to the powerful and inspiring landscape of the southern rim of the Grand Canyon in the neighbouring US state of Arizona. The drive across the flat and mostly arid landscape of Arizona is dull and an opportunity to unwind from the intense experiences of Las Vegas.

The Grand Canyon is considered one of the Wonders of the World, largely because of its natural features. The exposed geologic rock strata—from the bottom-most 1.8 billion years old layer called Vishnu schist—to the topmost called the Kaibab limestone, represents one of the most complete records of geological history that can be seen anywhere in the world.

The Grand Canyon overwhelms your senses with its immense size—446-km long river, up to 29km wide, and 1.6km deep, layer upon layer of rock seems to rise over a mile above the Colorado River.

Given US government protection (in 1893) as a Forest Reserve, the Grand Canyon became a full-fledged National Park in 1919 and, today, receives close to five million visitors each year, a far cry from the 44,173 people that the Park received in 1919.

Given the considerable distance from Las Vegas, a day trip allows you only a few hours at the Canyon itself split between the spectacular viewpoints at Mathers and Yavapai Points and some time at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center with its interpretive displays and exhibits. If you visit during the winter months, as I did, a passing squall can result in a dusting of snow highlighting the rock layers while shafts of sunlight breaking through the storm clouds dramatically illuminate the rock spires and canyons.

If you wish to spend more time at this dramatic landscape or walk down to the Canyon floor along one of the many trails, you will have to spend a night at one of the hotels in the area. Some are located outside the National Park gates while others, operated by local indigenous people, are located within the Park boundary.

Allow yourself at least three days to experience the entertainment capital of the world and see one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.

Why Go There: Las Vegas is unique—there is no city in the world that can offer a grand mix of larger-than-life experiences. Round-the-clock entertainment, the world’s best shows and hotels like you have never seen or stayed in before, Vegas has it all. The Grand Canyon is one of the world’s must-see natural wonders.

Getting There: There are direct flights to Las Vegas from several European cities with convenient connections from most major metro cities in India. There are flights to Las Vegas from most major American cities.

Visas: Indian nationals require US visas.

Where To Stay: It is easy to book Las Vegas hotels online. The official Vegas tourism website has a wealth of information and includes a hotel booking facility: www.vegas.com. Also, check out www.visitlasvegas.com.

McLeod Ganj: Little Lhasa in India

Previously published at Moneylife

Little Lhasa in India
August 25, 2011 09:21 PM | 
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik
McLeod Ganj is one of the fascinating parts of Himachal Pradesh with an elegant mixture of British heritage and Tibetan Buddhist tradition
The north Indian state of Himachal Pradesh is a colourful tapestry of different ethnic groups, religions and landscape, which vary from the rice-growing plains of Palampur to the snow-covered peaks of Lahaul and Spiti. It takes several trips to Himachal to see some of this incredible diversity. One of the fascinating corners of this mountain state, which can easily be reached, is McLeod Ganj.
Named after Sir Donald McLeod, lieutenant- governor of Punjab from 1865 to 1870 and one of the founders of the Punjab University, McLeod Ganj is the headquarters of the exiled Tibetan government and home of His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
The town is divided into two distinct parts. The lower town, called Dharamshala, has civil offices and business establishments with courts and the main market, while the upper part, 9km away, comprises McLeod Ganj and Forsyth Ganj. Since 1960, when it became the headquarters of the Dalai Lama, Dharamshala has risen to international fame as ‘The Little Lhasa in India’.
With the backdrop of the snow-clad Dhauladhar Mountains of the Lower Himalaya, McLeod Ganj is set amidst forests of pine, Himalayan oak and deodar.
The tallest peak of the Dhauladhar Range, Hanuman Tibba, about 18,500feet (5,639metre) high, lies immediately behind it. Originally home of the semi-nomadic Gaddi tribe, the settlement developed as a British garrison in the mid-19th century and continued to grow steadily in the coming years. By 1904, McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala had become important centres of trade, commerce and administration for the entire Kangra district and the town developed as a hill station where the British spent the hot summers. Lord Elgin, viceroy of British India (1861–63), liked the area so much that he even suggested at one point, that it be made the summer capital of India instead of Shimla. The British heritage of McLeod Ganj, overlaid by the strong Tibetan influence acquired since 1960 when the Dalai Lama settled here following his escape from Tibet, is what gives the town its interesting character and unique mix of cultural sites to explore.
At the end of a pleasant drive on a narrow road through forested slopes lies the part of town called Forsyth Ganj. The Anglican Church of Saint John in the Wilderness was built here in 1852. Set amidst a deodar forest, and built in neo-Gothic architectural style, the church is known for its Belgian stained-glass windows donated by Lady Elgin (Mary Lambton), wife of Lord Elgin, whose grave is located in the churchyard. The final resting place of Lord Elgin is located in the yard of the church. Bruce Elgin, Earl of Kincardine, served as governor-general of Canada and later became governor-general and viceroy of India in 1861. He died of a heart attack in November 1863, and was buried here.
Numerous Elgin Roads and Elgin Streets in Canada, India and Hong Kong are named after him, as is the Lord Elgin Hotel in Ottawa. Lord Elgin’s summer residence, called Mortimer House, was acquired by the government of India to become the official residence of the Dalai Lama. Though the main church structure survived a 1905 Kangra earthquake, the church spire and bell tower were destroyed. The earthquake killed close to 20,000 people and destroyed most buildings in Kangra, McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala. Later, a new bell, built in 1915 by Mears and Stainbank, was brought from England and installed outside in the compound of the church but the bell tower and spire were never rebuilt.
From a piece of British India, I went on to visit the colourful, lively legacy of Tibetan presence in McLeod Ganj. An important example of the Tibetan architecture in the town is the Tsuglakhang or the Dalai Lama’s temple. The magnificent images of the Shakyamuni Buddha, Avalokitesvara, the Tibetan deity of compassion, and that of Padmasambhava, who brought tantric teachings to Tibet in the eighth century, are located here. The temple also has a collection of sacred Buddhists texts called the Khagyur based on the teachings of the Buddha and a collection of works on Tibetan art, philosophy, literature, astrology and medicine. For reasons of security, photography is restricted in this area. Within easy walking distance is the Tibetan Museum, established with the aim of presenting Tibet’s history and vision for the future through texts, photographs and videos.
The Chonor House is the best place to stay, conveniently located near the main Tibetan temple adjacent to the Dalai Lama’s residence in the heart of McLeod Ganj. Set amidst tall deodar trees, the Chonor House is removed from the hustle and bustle of the town. It was designed and built by British architect David Porter in a style intended to blend with the natural environment of the hills overlooking the Kangra valley. Each of the 11 rooms is beautifully decorated according to a unique Tibetan theme.
Not far from the lower town of Dharamshala, in a place known as Sidhpur, is located the magnificent complex of buildings known as the Norbulingka, set amidst beautiful gardens, surrounded by green fields, standing against a backdrop of the snow-capped Dhauladhar Mountains. The original Norbulingka, located in the outskirts of Lhasa, was the summer palace of the Dalai Lamas who spent part of the year there amidst the gardens and fountains well removed from the austere surroundings of the Potala Palace. Founded by the Department of Religion and Culture of the Central Tibetan Administration, the present Norbulingka Institute contains the Centre for Arts, the Academy of Tibetan Culture, the Literary and Cultural Research Centre and the library and publications department. The Norbulingka Foundation was established in 1995 for preservation of the ancient art practices of Tibet, especially crafts.
Built according to a traditional Tibetan style, the Centre for Arts offers training in Tibetan statue-making, thangka painting, printing, appliqué and tailoring, wood carving, wood and metal craft. The Academy of Tibetan Culture, established in 1997, offers a six-year course of higher education in traditional Tibetan studies. The Norbulingka Institute also has the two-storied ‘Seat of Happiness Temple’ built in 1985 and set amidst the Japanese-inspired Norbulingka gardens. It is known for its 1,173 murals of the Buddha, frescoes of all the Dalai Lamas and drawings chronicling the life of the 14th Dalai Lama. In the main hall stands the 12-feet high gilded copper statue of the Buddha Shakyamuni made by the Institute’s master statue-maker, Pemba Dorje, and one of the largest such statues outside Tibet.
Around the temple are workshops of artisans and apprentices who produce various crafts sold at the Norbulingka gift shop for the benefit of Tibetan refugees. The landscapers have made use of the existing rocks, trees, flowing water and the terracing of the land, to create a semblance of a Japanese garden around the Institute buildings where nature flourishes and tranquillity prevails. Also within the premises is the Losel Doll Museum with a unique collection of 150 costumed dolls depicting the regional, official and monastic costumes of Tibet. In the nearby Tibetan Children’s Village school, children who have escaped from Tibet are provided with a Tibetan-orientated education, clothes, food and healthcare.
For a quick getaway to an easily accessible corner of the Himalayas where you can experience a variety of cultures and cuisines, McLeod Ganj is without parallel.
Why Go There: Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit McLeod Ganj as you can get the clearest views and pleasant temperatures. It can be wet during the monsoon months. In winter, you can enjoy better views of snow-capped mountains and clear blue skies.
Getting There: By air from Delhi to Gaggal airport and then by road to Dharamshala. By train to Pathankot and then a two-hour drive by taxi to Dharamshala.
Where To Stay: Travel arrangements in McLeod Ganj can be made through the Himachal Tourism Development Corporation’s website or directly through the hotels. The Chonor House can be contacted by phone or e-mail to request booking on 01892/22-1468, 01892/22-1006, or e-mail chonorhs@norbulingka.org.

 

GARHWAL: Land of the Ganges

Previously published at MoneyLife.

Garhwal: Land of the Ganges
September 08, 2011 09:00 PM | 
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik

Spend a fortnight enjoying some grand mountain scenery along the curves of a river that defines India. You’ll capture the very soul of our country,

The Garhwal region of the north Indian state of Uttarakhand has mythological and spiritual connections with Indian civilisation dating back to ancient times. Home to Nanda Devi, the highest mountain peak at 25,643ft entirely within India (Kanchenjunga is on the border of India and Nepal) and the birthplace of the River Ganges, Garhwal hosts the four temples of the ‘Char Dham’ at Gangotri, Jamnotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath. The rugged and spectacularly beautiful countryside consists almost entirely of rocky mountain ranges running in all directions separated by narrow valleys which, in some cases, become deep gorges and ravines. Tiny villages and terraced fields dot the lower- and mid-altitude hillsides while snow-capped peaks and glaciers crown the high summits.

On a journey through this land, perhaps it is best to let the photographs speak. This is a land that you can best experience over a two-week journey, ideally taken during spring, when throngs of pilgrims are yet to arrive, or in autumn, when the crowds have left and the hills have returned to their quiet, peaceful beauty. Driving up from the temple towns of Hardwar and Rishikesh, the road follows the graceful curves of the Ganges as it snakes its way through the lower Himalayas before emerging with a flourish onto the vast north Indian plains at Rishikesh. This part of the river is known for its white water rafting and seasonal rafting camps; groups of rafters are easily seen out on the river. Even if you have not made previous arrangements, stop at one of these camps, listen to the safety briefing, don your lifejackets and experience the Ganges first-hand; you will not regret the experience.

A short drive further brings you to Devprayag, one of the five sacred river confluences in Garhwal and an important place of pilgrimage for devout Hindus. Devprayag is the place where two heavenly rivers, the Alaknanda (coming from the mountains in the Nanda Devi area) and the Bhagirathi (coming from the Gangotri region) join to form the Ganges. On a terrace in the upper part of Devprayag is the temple of Raghunath built of huge stones, pyramidal in form and capped by a white cupola.

On this journey, take the left fork in the road and follow the Bhagirathi to its source. Driving past the towns of Tehri and Uttarakhand, you arrive in scenic Harsil—a tiny Himalayan village with a colourful history. Situated at a height of 7,860ft (2,620m) above sea level, Harsil is located 73km from Uttarkashi and is popular for the legend of ‘Pahari’ Wilson or Raja Wilson. Frederick Wilson, an adventurer, deserted the British Army just after the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857. He escaped to Garhwal and met the raja of Tehri-Garhwal, seeking refuge. But, being faithful to the British, the raja of Tehri-Garhwal refused safe passage to Wilson who slipped away deeper into the mountains to escape detection. Fate landed him in Harsil, a beautiful village on the banks of the Bhagirathi River, with dense deodar-forested slopes on either side. Wilson married a beautiful hill girl called Gulabi. Soon after, he entered into a contract with a London-based company and built a fortune with the export of skins, fur and musk. This was the time the British were building the railways in India and there was huge demand for quality wooden sleepers. Wilson cashed in on this opportunity and sent huge deodar logs floating down the river to the plains, making a fortune for himself.



Since Wilson had not taken permission from the raja of Tehri-Garhwal, his logging business soon ran into trouble until he made peace with the raja by offering him a share of the profits. It is said that the revenue of the raja went up tenfold over a short span of time. Little wonder that Wilson soon became a welcome guest and, in course of time, came to be called Raja Wilson—who minted his own currency. As late as the 1930s, these coins were found with the local people. According to some historians, the timber trade made Wilson so wealthy and powerful that the local raja of Tehri-Garhwal was unable to protect the village timber workers whom Wilson often exploited.

Raja Wilson built, what is known today as the Wilson’s Cottage, a huge wooden mansion now in disrepair. He also built the Charleville Hotel in Mussoorie which now houses the government of India training institute for the Indian Administrative Service recruits (called the Lal Bahadur Shastri National Academy of Administration). According to the locals, on moonlit nights, one can still see the ghost of Raja Wilson galloping down the hills to a long-vanished wooden bridge.



The next stop on our journey is the temple town of Gangotri at a height of about 10,200ft. The temple of the goddess Ganga, built by a Nepalese General, Amar Singh Thapa in the early 18th century, is the axis of this small town. The temple is closed for winter on Diwali day every year; it reopens in May. During this time, the idol of the goddess is kept at Mukhba village near Harsil. The aarti ceremony at the Gangotri is especially impressive, as is the temple, a stately building that sits on the banks of the rushing Bhagirathi whose spray forms wonderful rainbows. To experience the birthplace of the Ganges, follow the well-trodden trail deeper into the mountains on the 18-km trek to Gaumukh where you will see the river emerging from the terminal snout of the Gangotri glacier.

The Gangotri glacier, the source of the Ganges, is one of the largest in the Himalayas with an estimated volume of over 27 cubic kilometres. The glacier is about 30km long and 2km-4km wide. Around the glacier are the peaks of the Gangotri group; several of them, such as Shivling, Thalay Sagar, Meru and the Bhagirathi, are notable for their extremely challenging climbing routes. At 21,467ft, Shivling was called ‘Matterhorn Peak’ by early European visitors because it is similar in appearance to that Alpine peak. While it is not very high by Himalayan standards, it is a dramatic rock-peak and the most visually striking one seen from Gaumukh. Because of the beauty and the difficulty of the climb, it has become a prized challenge for mountaineers.

Walk back to the Gangotri village and drive back to Devprayag for the next part of the journey following the other branch of the Ganges, the Alaknanda, to its scenic home. Driving past the towns of Srinagar, Chamoli, Rudraprayag and Karnaprayag, one finally arrives in Joshimath, the base for trips to the famed Valley of Flowers and to the temple town of Badrinath. Take one of the highest cable cars in the world up to the ski resort of Auli that has ski slopes comparable with the best in the world. Outside of the January-March ski season, Auli provides a breathtaking 180-degree view of Himalayan peaks which include Nanda Devi, Kamet, Mana Parvat and Dunagiri.

Walk along the gentle trails that start from Auli and meander through the high alpine meadows (bugyals) and through forests of Himalayan silver oak and you will witness perhaps some of the grandest mountain scenery found anywhere in the world. The majestic beauty of the Garhwal Himalayas can be seen in the snow-capped peaks in every direction, the deep river gorges spanned by scenic suspension bridges and terraced hillsides. Give Garhwal a fortnight of your time and discover a part of India that not only has the highest mountain peaks in the country but also gives rise to the river that defines India’s culture and identity.

Why Go There: Garhwal, the birthplace of the Ganges River, has something to offer throughout the year. From summer hiking in the Valley of Flowers to winter skiing on the Auli slopes, from springtime drives through scenic freshly planted terraced hillsides to autumn visits to the temple towns of Gangotri and Badrinath, Garhwal is a land for all seasons. Whatever the season, magnificent scenery will greet you at every turn.

Getting There: There are several trains to Hardwar, from where you can arrange to hire a car with a driver. The alternative is to drive from Delhi along the busy, and yet to be improved, main road to Hardwar; the drive can take almost six hours. Maps are available at Uttarakhand government tourist offices in Rishikesh or from the official website: http://www.gmvnl.com/.

Where To Stay: Hotel accommodation and local travel arrangements are best arranged through the Uttarakhand government’s official tourist website (cited above) that allows booking of the government-run tourist lodges.

WASHINGTON STATE USA: Rainforests and Volcanos

Previously published at MoneyLife

Washington: Rainforests & Volcanoes
September 22, 2011 09:05 PM | 
Jaideep Mukerji & Veeresh Malik

Jaideep Mukerji visits an iconic state in the US which offers grand landscapes and endless opportunities to visit historic, cultural and scenic locations

In the far northwest of the continental United States is located the state of Washington. Not to be confused with the American capital, the city of Washington, DC, the state of Washington was carved out of land which had been surrendered by Britain in 1846. The state is named after George Washington, the first president of the US and is the only American state named after a president.

Approximately 60% of Washington’s residents live in the Seattle metropolitan area, the centre of transportation, business and industry along the Puget Sound region, an inlet of the Pacific Ocean consisting of innumerable islands, deep fjords and bays carved out by glaciers during the last Ice Age. The rest of the state comprises dense rainforests in the west, mountain ranges and a semi-arid (almost desert like-centre), given over to agriculture.



The Cascade Range, which dominates Washington state, contains five volcanoes that tower over the other mountains. From the north to the south, these volcanoes are: Mt Baker, Mt Rainier, Glacier Peak, Mt St Helens and Mt Adams. Mt St Helens is currently the only actively erupting volcano in the US, though all of these are considered active volcanoes. The 14,411-ft high Mt Rainier, the prominent snow-covered volcanic cone 80km south of the city of Seattle, is considered the most dangerous volcano in the US due to its nearness to the Seattle metropolitan area. On clear days, it dominates the south-eastern horizon in most of the Seattle metropolitan area to such an extent that locals sometimes refer to it simply as ‘the Mountain’. With 26 major glaciers and 93sq km of permanent snowfields and glaciers, Mt Rainier is the most heavily glaciated peak in the US with its summit topped by two large volcanic craters. After Mt Rainier, Mt Baker is the most heavily glaciated of the Cascade Range of volcanoes with its volume of snow and ice more than that of all the other Cascade volcanoes (except Mt Rainier) combined. It is also one of the snowiest places in the world; in 1999, the Mt Baker Ski Area, located 14km from the mountain itself, set a world record for highest snowfall in a single winter season—1,140 inches or about 95ft of snow fell that year!

At the extreme northwest corner of Washington is the unique Olympic National Park. A must-see for any visitor to the state, the Park became an International Biosphere Reserve in 1976 and was designated a World Heritage Site by the United Nations in 1981. With no obstruction for thousands of kilometres to the west in the vast Pacific Ocean, impressive waves that form come crashing ashore along the rugged coastline of the Olympic Peninsula in showers of spray and foam.

To the east, are ancient temperate rainforests, including the Hoh Rainforest which receives annual rainfall of about 150 inches (380cm) making this perhaps the wettest area in the US. Because this is a temperate rainforest, unlike a tropical one (like the Amazon Rainforest in South America), it is dominated by dense coniferous trees and mosses that coat the bark of the trees and drip down from their branches in green, moist tendrils.

Prior to the arrival of European settlers, the area’s human population consisted of Native Americans, indigenous people who used the peninsula mainly for fishing and hunting. Most, if not all Pacific Northwest indigenous people, were severely affected by European diseases and their numbers were greatly reduced. A number of indigenous cultural sites have been identified in the Olympic peninsula; important sites and artefacts are now protected and are worth a visit to appreciate the region’s native history.

Located only an hour’s drive north of Seattle, and just south of the Canadian border, is Washington state’s scenic Skagit Valley which comes alive with brilliant colours each spring. Acres and acres of daffodils, tulips, irises and lilies bring visitors to the towns of La Conner and Mount Vernon. The flower-viewing season begins with dainty yellow daffodils in mid- to late-March; a rainbow of tulips takes the stage in April. Irises and lilies follow, providing colour well into the month of May. The fields are also cultivated to produce bulbs of flowers, a major industry in the Skagit Valley. In addition to viewing and photographing the fields of colour, visitors to the Skagit Valley tulip festival (held every April) can explore the different display gardens and garden centres to learn about bulb-gardening.



While driving to the Skagit Valley, do not miss The Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour located in Mukilteo, 40km north of Seattle. The 90-minute public tour of Boeing’s Everett aircraft factory is available seven days a week and you can see the Boeing 747, 767, 777 and 787 Dreamliner airplanes being built for Boeing’s worldwide customers. During the tour, you will also see the world’s largest building by volume (472 million cubic feet) where some of the aircraft are assembled.

Finally, end the tour with a visit to Seattle’s Space Needle and the waterfront Pike Place Market. The Space Needle Tower is a major landmark of the entire region of the US and a symbol of Seattle. Located at the Seattle Center, it was built for the 1962 World’s Fair and is 605ft (184m) high. The Space Needle features an observation deck, a gift shop and the rotating SkyCity restaurant that rotates 360 degrees in exactly 47 minutes, all at a height of 500ft. From the top of Space Needle, one can see not only the Seattle city skyline, but also the Olympic and Cascade Mountains, Mt Rainier, Mt Baker, Elliott Bay and the surrounding islands.

Seattle’s Pike Place Market is a public market built on the edge of a steep hill on the waterfront of Elliott Bay. Pike Place opened in 1907 and is one of the oldest continually-operated public farmers’ markets in the US. It is a place of business for many small farmers, craftspeople and merchants and remains one of Seattle’s most popular tourist destinations. Local farmers and craftspeople sell year-round in the arcades in accordance with the Market’s mission and founding goal: allowing consumers to ‘Meet the Producer’.

Though often overlooked, this corner of the US offers grand landscapes and endless opportunities for visiting historic, cultural and scenic locations.



Why Go There: Washington and the Pacific northwest of the US is an area bordering the Pacific Ocean consisting of innumerable islands, deep fjords and bays carved out by glaciers. The rest of the state consists of dense rainforests, mountain ranges and an almost desert-like centre, apart from bustling Seattle and its many attractions.

Getting There: There are direct flights to Seattle from several European cities with convenient connections from most of the major metros in India as well as from all major American cities.

Visas: Indian nationals require a US visa.

Where To Stay: It is easy to book Washington state hotels online on any of the popular hotel sites like Expedia, Travelocity or Hotels.com. The official tourism website of the state—www.washingtonbeautiful.com—has a wealth of information on the dozens of attractions

BANGKOK: beyond the bright lights

Previously published at MoneyLife

Bangkok: Beyond the bright lights
June 16, 2011 09:02 PM | 
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik

Jaideep Mukerji stays clear of the well-trodden tourist paths of Thailand’s bustling capital and takes a leisurely river cruise—for a completely refreshing, different and adventurous look at one of Asia’s largest cities

A city that is visited by thousands upon thousands of travellers from India holds out a lot to discover and experience, in addition to the basic city-sightseeing offered by the package tour companies. Travel to Bangkok during the Songkran festival, usually in mid-April, and then spend time exploring the lesser-known parts of the city by canal boat and one will have a completely different and refreshing look at one of South East Asia’s largest cities.

 One of the high spots of the Thai calendar is the annual New Year or Songkran celebration, a national holiday that lasts for three days and falls on or around 13th April when the sun moves into Aries. The word Songkran originates from Sanskrit and means ‘beginning of the solar year’. The holiday-loving Thais, therefore, get to celebrate New Year three times each year—the Western New Year on 1st January, the Chinese New Year in February and the Thai New Year in April. Before Thailand adopted the Roman calendar in 1940, Songkran was calculated on the basis of solar calendar which varied from one year to the next. Now, the Songkran days in Bangkok are fixed and are from 13th to 15th April of every year.

 Having fun is a big part of Thai culture, and having fun amidst the scorching heat of April is no exception. The hottest month of the year sees the entire country go crazy in friendly water-fights and street parties that last nearly a week. During the Songkran festival, most office buildings, banks as well as family-run shops and restaurants shut down completely, although shopping malls usually remain open. Thai street food, always delicious, becomes an even more attractive option during this time since most restaurants are closed.

Songkran is also Thailand’s major festival for family reunions, temple visits and annual house-cleaning. Many Thais utilise the holidays for spending time with families and friends. Traditionally, Thais perform the ‘Rod Nam Dum Hua’ ritual on the first day of Songkran which is officially the National Elderly Day. During the ritual, younger people pour scented water into the hands of their parents and elders as a mark of respect and receive the blessings of the older folk.
 The second day of Songkran is officially the National Family Day. Thais get up early and give alms to Buddhist monks and then, ideally, spend the rest of the day with the family. An important religious ritual on Songkran is ‘Bathing the Buddha image’ during which devout Buddhists pour fragrant water over Buddha statues, both at the temple and at home.


Traditionally, Thais would politely pour a bowl of water on members of the family, their close friends and neighbours to symbolically wash off all misfortunes in the past year and to welcome the New Year. Now, as Songkran has taken a more raucous and modern note, the bowl of water has gradually become a bucket or a garden hose or even, water-guns, while the holiday spirit is now shared amongst local residents and tourists alike. The festival, somewhat like India’s Holi, has turned into a water-throwing funfest in which anyone and everyone is liable to get a thorough drenching from young people waiting in ambush at street corners—a blessed relief during the hottest month of the year.

Traditionally, during the festival period, Thais visit temples to offer food to the monks and to participate in bathing ceremonies for Buddha images. Another custom is the releasing of small fish into rivers and canals. This merit-making act is thought to come from the old practice of collecting small fish from dried-out pools, to keep and later release back into the wild.

 Traffic in Bangkok, usually a nightmare, is at its quietest during Songkran, as many of the city’s inhabitants usually return to their upcountry homes for the long holidays and the roads are remarkably traffic-free. Travelling to Bangkok during this fun-filled festival period, I spent a couple of days exploring Bangkok’s early history, when life in the capital still revolved around the Chao Phraya River and its offshoot khlongs (canals). While modernisation has changed the Chao Phraya riverscape, adding gleaming high rises and imposing concrete structures to the picture, the khlongs retain much of their charming character.



A leisurely river cruise through Bangkok’s equivalent of the back alleys allows you to view the city’s traditional neighbourhoods with children bathing, elderly people in balconies watching life go by and couples sitting on steps dipping their feet in the cool waters of the canal. The Chao Phraya River provides a great way to get around, since many of the major tourist sites are easily accessible from the River. In Bangkok, the River is a major transportation artery for a network of river buses, cross-river ferries and water taxis, also known as ‘long-tails’. More than a dozen boat lines operate regular commuter services on the rivers and canals of the city. The Chao Phraya River Express operates a regular boat service up and down the river. Like a public bus on the water, the fares are extremely cheap and you can get just about anywhere for 11 baht to 25 baht (about 16 to 37 in Indian rupees) depending on the distance. There are piers next to many of the riverside hotels. The new service, specifically for tourists, is the ‘Chao Phraya Tourist Boat’ which uses newer and more comfortable boats serving just those piers of interest to tourists. The price structure is different and you must purchase a one-day river pass for 150 baht (about $5) which entitles you to an unlimited number of trips on the same day.

The Grand Palace situated on the main Chao Phraya River is an obvious starting point for a river-based sightseeing tour of Bangkok’s highlights. Started in 1782, the complex is a collection of buildings that span over 1.5 sq km; within the grounds is the Wat Phra Kaeo, known for the famous statue of the Emerald Buddha. Sitting on a golden altar, it is carved from green jade and is only about 30 inches high. Do not miss the fearsome looking yakshas that guard the entrance to important parts of the palace and golden statues of the kinnara, a celestial musician, half-human and half-bird, adopted from Buddhist and Hindu mythology. Although Thailand’s King Bhumibol does not reside here any longer, the Palace is still very much in use as many royal rituals are performed here by the King every year. Other royal ceremonies celebrated here are coronations, royal funerals, marriages and state banquets. The Palace grounds also contain the offices and buildings of the Bureau of The Royal Household, the Office of the Private Secretary to the King and Royal Institute of Thailand.

 The Wat Arun or the Temple of the Dawn is another major temple easily accessible from the water route. Wat Arun was built in the early 19th century and its tower is the highest in Thailand—measuring 265 ft. The tower, or prang, is covered with pieces of Chinese porcelain and its beauty is best appreciated from the river at a distance. The temple gets its name from the Indian god of dawn, Aruna. Amongst the superb statues of the Buddha inside are some that record the most important stages of his life, at birth (north), in meditation (east), preaching his first sermon (south) and entering Nirvana (west).

 Another temple that I found impressive, although completely away from the regular tourist trail, was the Wat Suthat, a royal temple classified as a first grade temple, one of only six such temples in Thailand. Started by King Rama I in 1807, the temple was not completed until the reign of King Rama III in 1847. The main temple of Wat Suthat contains the Sakyamuni Buddha’s image and the surrounding galleries are lined with golden Buddhas.

 Give a go-by to the well-trodden tourist trails, buy yourself a one-day Tourist Boat river pass and explore the cultural treasures located along the canals and waterways of Bangkok. Discover a city that has so much to offer, particularly if you travel during the Songkran festival.

When To Go:
Although a popular tourist destination, most visitors skim Bangkok’s cultural surface and limit themselves to what the mass tour operators sell them. There is a wealth of cultural sites and treasures to explore in this city using cheap and convenient public transport.

Getting There:
There are direct flights to Bangkok from each of India’s metro cities. There are convenient connections from most other cities in India.

Visas:
Indian nationals are given a visa on arrival at the airport, provided their stay is for 15 days or less and they have confirmed prepaid hotel reservations and a return air ticket. There is a visa fee payable.

Where To Stay:
It is easy to book Bangkok hotels online. (The official Thai Tourism website has a wealth of information and includes a hotel-booking facility: http://www.tourismthailand.org/). Language is not a problem, as English is commonly spoken.

Bhutan - ancient kingdom, youngest king . . .

Previously published at http://www.moneylife.in/ . . .

++++



Bhutan: Ancient kingdom, youngest king
June 02, 2011 09:25 PM | 
Jaideep Mukerji with Veeresh Malik

Jaideep Mukerji steps back in time as he travels through South Asia’s tiny kingdom, untouched by the ravages of civilisation

Bhutan–India’s neighbouring country, is the only country in the world where there are no traffic lights, few traffic crossings and where police boxes are decorated with dragons. It is also the least urbanised country in South Asia with only a few motor vehicles, no high-rise buildings and no symbols of Western modernity. When you travel to Bhutan, you certainly get the feeling that you have stepped back in time. An air of mysticism surrounds Bhutan’s attractions, from centuries-old dzongs (fortresses) unique to the area, to medieval monasteries. Bhutan is a landlocked country approximately 300km long and only 150km wide, situated along the southern slopes of the Himalayan range. The country remains cautious in its contact with the outside world and the flow of tourists into the country is tightly regulated while the government makes great efforts to preserve and strengthen the country’s religious and cultural traditions.



Although archaeological exploration has been limited, evidence of civilization in the region dates back to at least 2000 BC. The original Bhutanese, known as the Monpa, are believed to have migrated from Tibet. The traditional name of the country since the 17th century has been ‘Druk Yul’, Land of the Drukpa or the Dragon People, which is officially portrayed on the country’s flag.

For centuries, Bhutan was made up of feuding tribal regions until it was unified under King Ugyen Wangchuck in 1907. The British exerted some control over Bhutan until India’s independence. Up to the 1960s, Bhutan chose to remain largely isolated from the rest of the world. Its people carried on with a traditional way of life, farming and trading, preserving a culture which had remained intact for centuries. After China invaded Tibet in 1958, Bhutan strengthened its ties with India in an effort to avoid Tibet’s fate. New roads and other connections to India were built and, in the 1960s, Bhutan undertook social modernisation, abolishing the caste system, emancipating women and enacting land reforms.



In 2005, King Jigme Singye Wangchuk, Bhutan’s fourth hereditary ruler, outlined plans for the country to shift to a two-party democracy. In December 2006, he abdicated in favour of his son, the Crown Prince Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuk who became the fifth Druk Gyalpo (monarch) of Bhutan and head of the Wangchuck dynasty. Jigme Khesar Wangchuck was crowned king in November 2008 and at the age of 30, he is the world’s youngest monarch.
I took the Bhutanese airlines, Druk Air, Airbus 319 flight from Delhi via Kathmandu to Paro in western Bhutan, set in what is considered the most beautiful of the country’s main valleys at an elevation of about 7,500ft. The dominant feature of Paro is undoubtedly the Paro Dzong (fortress/monastery) set high above the Paro Chu River with spectacular views up and down the Paro Valley. Paro Dzong is a typical dzong, and its form is copied by other buildings across Bhutan. It was originally built in 1646, but has been destroyed a number of times, sometimes by fire, other times by earthquakes. Today, it houses the National Museum of Bhutan which displays intricately painted thangkas (hand-painted wall hangings), traditional costumes, stamps (even talking stamps) and objects from archaeological excavations.



Located further up the valley is the well-known Takstang or ‘Tiger’s Nest’ monastery which was completely destroyed by fire in 1998 and has, since, been rebuilt. On the cloudy afternoon of my visit,

I chose not to go for the two-hour hike to the monastery itself but, instead, drove to a viewing point in the valley from where one can see Takstang in the distance through the mist high up on the cliff opposite.

The following morning, I headed east along a scenic mountain road to Thimphu, the country’s tiny capital located at 7,600ft in a broad green valley surrounded by terraced rice fields. The town of about 40,000 people built along traditional lines is the administrative centre of Bhutan since the 1950s. The main street of Thimphu, Norzim Lam, is lined with shops of all descriptions, mainly stocking goods imported from India and China.

The main places of interest in Thimphu can easily be seen in a couple of days starting with a visit to the ‘viewpoint’ (if it’s clear), followed by the zoo, the Memorial Chorten, the National Institute for Traditional Arts and Crafts, the Institute of Traditional Medicine, the Folk Heritage Museum, the Post Office (Bhutanese stamps are famous), and the National Library which houses the world’s largest book.



The impressive Tashicho Dzong located beside the river in Thimphu is the seat of the Bhutanese government. The present modern building is a rebuilt version of a dzong that was here since 1641 and it retains many of the features of the original dzong. It now houses all the government ministries, the throne room of the King, the National Assembly chambers as well as the nation’s largest monastery with over 2,000 monks in residence. The Bhutanese are passionate about chilli, almost every village roof is a deep red colour—covered by a layer of chillies laid out to dry. The national dish, ‘ema datshi’ is vegetarian, made from yak cheese and chilli. No trip to the Dragon Kingdom is complete without sampling this tasty, but hot, offering.

Departing from Thimphu, I drove through forests of pine and cedar to the 10,300ft high Dochu La pass with panoramic views north to the snow-covered peaks of the high Himalayas. A long descent finally brought us to Punakha located at a relatively low altitude of 4,265ft in a dry valley. Punakha produces most of the oranges and fruits grown commercially in Bhutan and, despite the warmer climate and the possibility of growing an endless variety of produce, the population of the valley remains remarkably low.

Until recently, Punakha was the winter capital of Bhutan and it is still the winter headquarters of the National Monk of Bhutan (Je Khempo) and his followers who move here every winter. The Punakha Dzong was built strategically at the junction of Pho Chu and Mo Chu (the Sun and Moon) Rivers in 1637 to serve as the religious and administrative centre of this region. The dzong was damaged by four major fires and an earthquake—though fully restored, it remains frequently closed for visitors. I had timed my Bhutan visit to coincide with one of the ‘tsechus’ or monastery festivals where masked dances depicting the events from the life of Padmasambhava, the eighth century Buddhist teacher, are staged. The tsechu provides the local people with an occasion to gather, dress up, and enjoy in a festive atmosphere. Family members travel great distances from villages by foot over passes and along mountain trails to be reunited. It is also an occasion for people to receive blessings from a lama or Buddhist monk and watch sacred dances performed by trained monks wearing ornate costumes and impressive masks.

Every year, tsechu dates are chosen by the National Monk Body of Bhutan based on the lunar calendar and Buddhist astrological charts. Paro has one of the grandest tsechus in Bhutan during April; colourful ones are also held in Thimphu, Trongsa and Jakar. Driving over a series of passes over the Black Mountains,

I reached the small town of Trongsa and then drove further east to the Bumthang Valley deep in the heart of Bhutan. The journey to this less-visited part of Bhutan gives one an insight into a medieval way of life that has changed little over the centuries. Development has brought education, healthcare and electricity, but the local small farm-based economy, that has kept the locals self-sufficient over centuries, remains largely unchanged.

Reaching Jakar town, I spent two days soaking in the sights, sounds and colours of one of the largest tsechus held in Bhutan. With blowing of horns and beating of drums, monks wearing black hats entered the courtyard followed by a dazzling display of swirling brocade dresses, masks and colourful banners. During intervals, clowns (atsaras) added some lightness to the serious religious atmosphere with their crazy antics. Getting to the end of my stay, I travelled by road through the southern Himalayas, descending gradually to the border town of Phuntsholing busy with equal numbers of Bhutanese and Indians. From Phuntsholing, a five-hour drive takes you to the Indian airport of Bagdogra with flight connections to all parts of India.

When To Go:
Although the country is quite small, Bhutanese weather varies from location to location depending upon the elevation. Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit Bhutan. Punakha is an exception as it is in a lower valley and is pleasant even during winter. In winter, you can enjoy better views of snow-capped mountains and clear blue skies.

Where To Stay:
Travel arrangements within Bhutan have to be made through a Bhutanese tour operator who arranges accommodation, transport, guides and complete travel support. A list of operators, travel itineraries and information is available on www.abto.org.bt and also on www.tourism.gov.bt

Visas:
Indian nationals travelling from India to Bhutan do not need a Bhutan visa. A current Indian passport or an election ID card is required at immigration to obtain an entry-permit. You need to take with you two passport-size photographs.

Getting There:
By air with Druk Air from Delhi and Kolkata to Paro in western Bhutan. By road from Bagdogra airport to Phuntsholing (5-6 hours) and then onwards to Paro or Thimphu.

Currency:
The Bhutanese currency is called Ngultrum (Nu) and is equal to the Indian rupee. Credit cards (American Express and Visa) are accepted by only a few establishments. The Indian rupee is accepted all over Bhutan.

Indian Railways - Delhi/Bangalore/Kottayam/Cochin/Bangalore/Delhi

Quick take on my last rail journey, photos are on my flickr pages, next one is Delhi/Patna/Jamalpur/Delhi.

+++

Hazrat Nizamuddin to Yasvantpur by Karnatak Sampark Kranti Express

I selected this train mainly because not having travelled on the Hyderabad-Bangalore line, the urge to do so during the daylight hours was imperative, and only this train gave me the opportunity. In addition, the SK Express trains have fewer stoppages en route, and that is important for me too, lesser too-and-fro of new people en route..

Departure Nizamuddin early in the morning at 0645, usual chaos at the station outside with taxiis/autos blocking the whole area, there are many arrivals into this station in the morning, Made it to the Platform 7 just a few minutes before the train started rolling, departure boards don't work too well at what used to be a premium railway station at one time, and the whole area is a disgrace. Train was stopped right after it started rolling, and then left at about 0650, trundling or rather ambling along through the garbage which is a constant all the way to Agra.

Electric engine, my coach was towards the rear, and I could not get numbers or type. Maybe the photos I have up at http://www.flickr.com/vm2827 will help.

I was travelling in Second Sleeper class, weather report promised good monsoon weather after Agra, but we were about 2 hours late by the time we reached Agra, and the sun was really hot and out. Got a decent shot of train over train just before we entered Agra. Stopped on one of the non-platform tracks and overtook the Nizamuddin-Kolhapur train there.

The reason for this delay was the usual congestion ex-Delhi and some heavy work just before Agra. Anycase, after Agra, the train started really pelting, and the weather improved to cloudy with drizzle and some thundershowerrs too. First stop Jhansi, after which we overtook the Punjab Mail at a wayside station, and then crossed the returning Shatabdi well before Bhopal.

Some UP Police staff boarded the train on their way to Bhopal, and tookover some seats and berths in an arrogant manner, which people tolerate because I guess that is what we are. Police travelling is a regular feature on this route, but nowhere else are they as rude towards poor people.

We were still about 90 minutes late into Bhopal, after which it became dark on our way to Nagpur.

Travelling by Sleeper Class after a long time, this coach was in good shape, recently disinfected so absolutely no insects or rodents and most everything in good shape. Some rowdies had destroyed the recharge points in ALL the coaches. Wheel noise was minimal, actually the fans made more hum, and full marks to the cleaning and sanitation crew en route.

Quaity of food served onboard is miserable, regular travellers seem to know it, and either bring their own or order ahead - delivery onboard is done in Bhopal and Nagpur, as I observed.

After Bhopal starts the beautiful dark part of India, including a banker (two more electrics . . .) episode which was done very rapidly at a small wyside station, where we got the most amazing jamuns. It is pitch dark here, and I got good cooperation from people, asking them to switch off lights so that we could see the stars. - and pointing some out to them. Was fast asleep while the train was at Nagpur, but some youngsters who had ordered pizza delivery gently woke me up to offer me a slice.

Had a very comfortable sleep with brilliant cool weather throughout. Woke up next morning at Kazipet, where the train has a technical stop, and is boarded by a large number of official looking people, mostly security forces travelling in civilian clothes, who distribute themselves over the train. They do not look too happy or confident.

Train ambled into Kacheguda about 30 minutes behind schedule, slowing down a lot on the byepass line, and then stopped there for a good 30 minutes as the traction was changed to diesel. Kacheguda Station is very impressive, very clean, and serves good breakfast - simple idlis, vadas and dosas. Matter of fact, all stations on this route are kept very clean, and serve some decent fresh cooked food or the other. Lemon rice, channa vadas, lassi, coconut water, and fresh fruit. None of the pudi-aaloo samosas reheated multiple times.

Once out of Hyderabad, it was flat terrain, hot and sunny till Kurnool, after which the weather and terrain changed to green and rocky minor mountains. At Dharmavaram we were slightly ahead of time despite single line halts, there was a huge contingent of forces who were camped apparently standing bye for something, probably to do with Sai Baba's ashram. The SK Express does not take the loop to the Ashram P Nilayam,so we continued on direct through Penugonda and Hindupur, finally coming to a long halt at Yelahanka,so that the train could enter Yasvantpur about on time.

Notes:-

1) Eunuchs are found on three sectors here: ex-Delhi, ex-Hyderababd and prior Bengaluru.
2) There appears to be atleast 3-4 hours slack built into the timetable for this train.
3) Indian railways should really think of taking feedback from Sleeper Class pax also.
4) Something has to be done about the food served onboard. It appears to be a waste lugging the pantry car all the way.
5) The garbage along track situation is terrible. Some shram dan or solution has to be found. Tea-coffee should go back to kullads, and garbage disposal needs to be controlled.
6) Something is very wierd with the waiting list system. This train was shwoing full in all classes for months in advance but was actually running at about 80% occupancy - even lower after Hyderabad.
7) Quality of coach external paint is terrible - this is done by hand now? Even the straight lines are wavy.

Next leg: Yasvantpur to Kottayam by GR.

+++

YPR to Kottayam/12257 GR and Eranakulam Jn to SBC /16316 BLR Exp

Opening Note:- Apologies for "combo Trip Report" but both journeys were night trains, so slept through much.

1) Getting to Yasvantpur RS from South Bangalore is a big feat, takes 90 minutes by car/taxi/auto, including about 30 minutes for the last 2 kilometres, due to Metro construction, please plan accordingly. Once at the Station, the chaos is left behind, and we make it to the train. Full green rake, all coaches fit for 130kmph, and must say this- excellent job in cleanliness. We were in S/15, almost at the tail, which I like - with 2 lower berths thanks to good advance planning and some book/unbook episodes which are part of learning curve.

Air conditioning was on in advance - fully chilled. Food on platform - veg biryanii = 40/- and egg biryani = 50/-, both of which were tried out and very tasty too. Water, tea and coffee service, and no eunuchs or beggars throughout. Bedroll dispersal was efficient, 1 attendant per 2 coaches, thoiugh you have to stand in line to get it = 25/- rupees for blanket+sheet+pillow case+pillow. Please remember to carry change. Sheets and pillow case were good, pillows showed age and blankets were so-so. Lot of fibre flying out of the blankets.

12257 Gr from Yasvantput to Kochuveli left dot on time, 2100/26jun'11, and crawled through to the next station, which is BANASWADI, where majority of the passengers seem to board. The Yasvantpur departure was on the left side, and Banaswadi is on the right side, which creates problems of the "where is the chart" sort.

The train was under diesel for the complete passage (till Kottayam atleast). The schedule leaves enough space for lower speeds and before time arrivals which also means very comfortable sleep. There has to be something about the sound proofing and insulation on the GR, which along with larger number of people in the coach, gives for a comfortable ride - have seldom slept so well. Air quality was also better than other trains, as an ex-asthamatic I am a walking judge of this aspect.

Food along the route is so-so, on our journey, prettiest parts are near Palghat/PALAKAD. Many people disembarked and embarked at THRISSUR. Cochin Town (also known as Ernakulam North and ERN) is a sleepy station compared to its Big Brother Eranakulam South/ERS/Eranakualam Junction). After this, the train winds its way through a single line section, with what looks like a cross at every station along the way. Some doubling is visible and you can get a good glimpse of Cochin Airport.

I would like to place this journey amongst the best we have had, value for money as well as overall cleanliness, once again, the toilets were clean to start with as well as cleaned en route. One observation - the coaches may need to be fitted with the blue night lights, otherwise it gets very dark at night.

+++

No departure by train from Cochin can commence without a great discussion with friends and the driver on the whole business of the way the two stations have been named. One is Ernakulam Town also known as Ernakulam or Cochin North and ERN. the other is known as Eranakulam Junction or Eranakulam South/Cochin South and ERS. In addition, the city signboards differ in their spelling, and at one stage, MG Road vanishes into a collection of potholes that by magic becomes variously known as Station Road and similar. Since there is a Station Road even at the beginning of the Bypalli Byepass, you can have great fun if you are from out of town.

We were on 16316/Bangalore Express from Eranakulam ERS to Bangalore City SBC. Here is another interesting observation - there are three "Bangalore Express" trains on the same date on this route. Maybe they could rename them somehow. Due to planning issues, the LOH was in AC2T with a lower berth and I was in 2nd Sleeper on RAC.

We had a good clean decent meal at the IRCTC cafe and food plaza on Platform 1, veg+non-veg options plus soup+softdrinks+desserts+two bottles of water for below 150/- rupees, really stuffed ourselves, and 16316 arrived on time, also on Platform 1. Electric engine from ERODE, I think it was 30286, lost the paper I was taking notes on. AC2T is 5th from engine and S7 was 4 more behind. The AC2T coach was ancient, and the sleepers coaches were mostly ancient (though S-10 was brand new or atleast looked like it had all the new fittings) and the whole train had a depressed feel about it.

Sure enough, as soon as we departed, a procession of beggars were with us till Thrissur. Through the night it was peaceful and running on time, though the driver ws a horn artist, and next morning, more beggars and eunuchs got onboard at what looked like a semi-planned unscheduled halt for no reason at a point just before the double line starts, and then it was a procession of disfigured beggars, eunuchs and harmonium+singers.

It is only tea and coffee on this route. Before Bangalore we must have been following a local train as we stopped at every small station, and then the train stopped for 20 minutes at WHITEFIELDS to let another long distance train overtake us. Ambled through, and arrived on time, almost.

COMESUM at Bangalore City is only semi-functional till 1100, and not even cleaned, big disappointment - even the dosa was soggy. The taxi-auto fake "official" fare chart game is doing well at the Platform 1 side of SBC, please be careful, even the traffic cops will "advise" you to negotiate. In reality, plenty of good buses are available from MAJESTIC side, there is also a free connecting bus every 10 minutes from station, and the 3-wheeler auto prepaid booth is cleverly disguised without any boards - but if you ask, you will be pointed in that direction. MERU and other radio-cabs don't prefer to serve Railway Stations, it seems.

+++

End note - the quality of the Sleeper coach I was in (S7) and the absolute total lack of cleanliness also meant processions of cockroaches throught he night. Garib Rath wins hands down, for now.

Next- YPR to DEE by Duronto in Ac2T starting tomorow 02jul11.

+++

12213 YPRYasvantpur Bangalore to DEE Delhi Sarai Rohilla Duronto

So finally, getting to try the Duronto Express train, and I almost did not make it because come 2nd of July at Bangalore, I was down with this most amazing 'flu, almost without energy. Anyways, the waiting list ticket 36 in AC2T confirmed itself at charting, with a comfortable Upper Berth (A2-28), so well in time and allowing for bad traffic, took a MERU cab to YPR to reach there almost 2 hours in advance.

The Duronto is scheduled to depart from Platform 6, which obviates the need to climb stairs, if you get dropped on that side. The 12649 Sampark Kranti for H. Nizamuddin pulled out from PF 6 while I was there, about 10 minutes behind schedule, and then around 2245 the empty rake of the 12213 Duronto for DEE was backed in. A2 is towards the end of this train, with a pantry car separating it and the rest of the train from the H1 coach.

Full marks to YPR for cleanliness. The GR the week before and now this Duronto, spanking clean, thank you.

Before this, I was busy trying to analyse the charting / waiting list confirmation / upgrading board at YPR for our train. Very interesting, it scrolls through W/L position, name and final position with all the little codes for HO and other stuff. Some lucky people who were original position W/L 1-5 on AC2T had been upgraded to 1AC. The rest, it was interesting, many people who had been confirmed were with single names like "Khan", "Kumar", "Preeti" and similar. Also, people down in the waiting list had been confirmed, while many in the middle had not - this is for AC3T.

YPR does not have a bookshop, and the food part is minimal, anycase I had some back-up food from home. Just as well. Next day's breakfast was so-so, lunch was inedible and by dinner time I asked the pantry car guys to just give me some boiled eggs and rotis. Zero marks for food on this train. Throw salt into everything appears to be the skillsets. Might as well announce that S'Bad will be a technical stoppage and that good food will be available there in both directions.

Train rolled out of YPR dot on schedule at 2345. For company I had a family of Tibetans, who were very polite and offered me my choice of berths, I stayed with my Upper and went to sleep soon thereafter. I have no idea what route the train took at night, but it just sort of ambled along without too much rock and roll and jostle on the RCF hybrid coaches which were marked "fit for 160 kmph". Woke up in the morning near the atomic nuclear power plant, and then ambled into Secunderabad via Begumpet side at 0908. Train was there for a good 22 minutes, during which time most people stocked up at the very efficient platform.

The AC2T coach in this train has 52 berths, including some very unfortunate ones right at the end of the train near the door, and I think IR needs to be told that squeezing more and more people into AC2T is not a good idea.

Once out of Secunderabad, I fell asleep again, and slept through till Nagpur, where we were alongside for 9 minutes, 1628-1637. Got some photos after this, and was really unwell, so fell asleep till next morning - when I woke up it was going dead slow near Faridabad. Had some faint memories of the train really rocking at high speeds around dawn.

Now from Faridabad onwards this Duronto became a real slow passenger. Gave "pass" to everything, and finally changed over to the Delhi Avoiding Line well before Nizamuddin, rolled through extremely slowly past Lajpat Nagar, Sewa Nagar, Delhi Safdarjung, Brar Square and then into the mess that is the approaches to Delhi Sarai Rohilla.

DEE deserves special mention as a station to be avoided at all costs. If possible. Why the once-a-week Duronto to Bangalore has been blessed with DEE is debated enough - but some effort has to be made to move this train out. Maybe the authorities can consider Anand Vihar ANVT as an option, it will serve the South Indian population of East Delhi who have no other train.

What do I think of the Duronto concept? Personally, the point-to-point aspect is the best, for me. High speed is not a major parameter, given safety aspects. High density coach configuration is a down-side. Food is so subjective an issue. The timings for this train could be amended to be one night.

+++

Previously also published by me at http://forum.irfca.org/forumdisplay.php/28-Trip-Reports

+++

You can't quit Quito . . .

Previously published at Moneylife at http://www.moneylife.in/article/you-cant-quit-quito/12658.html

Jaideep Mukerji explores Darwin’s Galapagos Islands near Ecuador—the only country where you can experience all four seasons in a single day

Located between Colombia and Peru is a small country with a range of attractions. Ecuador, a country about the size of Andhra Pradesh, has pristine beaches and seaside resorts, high mountain plateaus dotted with snow-capped volcanoes and a large area of dense Amazon tropical jungle. About 970km off Ecuador’s coast lie the awe-inspiring Galapagos Islands where Charles Darwin made his scientific observations before writing the famous book On the Origin of Species that is now considered to be the foundation of evolutionary biology.

I had spent several weeks planning this trip and, fortuitously, an old friend said that he would put me in touch with an Ecuadorian gentleman. That connection with Pablo Gonzalez turned out to be a stroke of good luck as Pablo not only gave accurate information to help me plan the tour, but also became a friend and expert local guide.

Whether your flight connections are via Europe or the US, it takes almost 24 hours to reach Quito. Ecuador’s capital city is at 9,200ft almost directly over the equator on the eastern slopes of the often active Pichincha Volcano. Quito’s altitude makes it the second-highest capital city in the world after La Paz in Bolivia. Quito’s airport is in the middle of the city, although a new airport, some 50km north, is now under construction.

After checking in at Dann Carlton Hotel, Pablo took me for a drive to Quito’s Old Town which is the largest and best-preserved amongst the cities of Latin America with impressive Spanish colonial architecture. The first city to be named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1978, Quito is home to about 40 churches and chapels and 16 convents and monasteries built during the Spanish colonial rule.

Leaving the city, we drove a short distance north to the village of Mitad El Mundo with a large monument built on the equatorial line. There is a museum nearby and a small chapel where marriages are solemnised—with one spouse standing in the northern hemisphere and the other in the southern!
Later that evening, as the temperature dropped to a cool 12°C, we sat in a busy restaurant where locals were sipping the traditional delicious warming drink, canelazo, made by blending orange juice, cinnamon and the strongly alcoholic aguardiente distilled from cane sugar. A country with such diverse climate, Ecuador grows a wide range of fruits including mangoes, custard apples and guavas, along with cool-weather and tropical vegetables, and over 50 varieties of potatoes, a vegetable that originally came from the Andes. The favourite national Ecuadorian cuisine consists of rice, corn, potatoes and meat—known locally as churrasco. This is accompanied by aji, a spicy sauce.

Although I had initially planned to go no further than the Galapagos Islands, Pablo’s offer to drive south along the spine of the Andes on the highway (famously known as the ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’) past a series of active and dormant volcanoes, to the central Ecuadorian city of Riobamba and the southern colonial city of Cuenca, was impossible to decline. We arranged to meet on my return from Galapagos and do this journey together with a quick trip north of Quito to the Otavalo region well known for its traditional indigenous markets.

Jet lag was catching up by now and it was a night of dreamless sleep before another early trip to the airport to catch the morning flight to the island of Baltra and join a four-day cruise around the Galapagos Islands.

Soon after taking off from Quito’s airport, the captain pointed out the 20,500-ft high glacier-covered summit of the Chimborazo Volcano which is the highest peak in Ecuador. In barely 20 minutes, we landed in Guayaquil, which is Ecuador’s largest city and commercial capital located on the Pacific coast, for a half-hour stop to drop off and pick up passengers.

Unlike Quito’s cool temperate climate, Guayaquil is humid and tropical and feels much like Mumbai. From Guayaquil, it is an hour’s flight west over the open Pacific Ocean to the tiny island of Baltra that has one of the two small airports on the Galapagos Islands. All international visitors have to pay $100 as National Park Fee and another $10 for a separate environment permit before being allowed entry into Baltra’s open terminal building. All walls are only half the height to the ceiling to allow daylight in and the ocean breezes to pass through for natural cooling.

I had booked my Galapagos cruise with Klein Tours based in Quito who operate the 4-star M/V Galapagos Legend cruise ship. From the tiny Baltra airport, the Klein Tours bus drove us 5km to the island jetty. Getting off the bus, all of us headed straight for the small shelter at the end of the jetty for some shade; instead we ran into our first encounter with Galapagos wildlife. The shelter was occupied by smelly sea lions—large males, the somewhat smaller females and several pups, all wanted to get away from the hot sun as much as we did. Gingerly skirting the sea lions, we boarded our inflatable powerboat—pangas as they are locally called—and were taken to the ship moored about half-a-kilometre offshore.

The Legend is a very comfortable and well-appointed ship with a library, lecture room, bar, restaurant, swimming pool and a small gift shop. I settled into my cabin—two decent-sized beds, a small TV, a writing desk and a private balcony to sit out and enjoy the magnificent scenery of the small and large Galapagos Islands scattered amongst the deep blue waters of the Pacific. The Galapagos Islands form an Ecuadorian province and the entire area is a national park and a biological marine reserve. The islands are geologically young and famous for their large variety of bird and animal species. These were studied by Charles Darwin during the voyage of his ship, the Beagle, and his observations contributed to the birth of Darwin's theory of evolution by natural selection. The Galapagos group consists of 15 main islands, three smaller islands and 107 tiny islets. The oldest island is believed to have formed between 5 million and 10 million years ago while the youngest islands, Isabela and Fernandina, are still being formed by volcanic lava; the most recent volcanic eruption occurred in April 2009.

The buffet lunch on the Legend was fabulous with a variety of salads, soups, hot vegetarian and meat dishes and a selection of desserts. While we were having lunch, I could hear the anchor being raised and soon we were sailing north to the first of our island landings. After lunch, all of us were called to assemble in the lecture room for the first of our safety and wildlife briefings, where we received detailed guidelines on how to safely approach the abundant wildlife and avoid causing unnecessary disturbance.

Over the following four days, the Legend took us to North Seymour, Santa Cruz, Floreana, Española, San Cristobal and, finally, the Baltra islands. Before we arrived at each of the islands, the passengers would be divided into groups of about 12 and we would then board our panga, each accompanied by an expert naturalist guide. On every occasion, usually twice daily, we would step ashore on an island to be amazed by the variety of wildlife, landscapes and marine life.

No two islands offered the same experience; each was unique. Most islands are uninhabited and left completely in their natural state. San Cristóbal, however, has a small port; Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, with souvenir shops, cafes and Internet kiosks sharing the waterfront with the ever-present noisy sea lions. Marine and land iguanas, blue-footed and Nazca booby birds, the red-pouched frigate bird, flamingos and pelicans, Galapagos sea lions and fur seals, a forest of giant cacti, volcanic lava fields and colourful underwater marine life were just some of the highlights that we saw. Every evening, excursions were complemented by documentary films, slideshows and lectures by experts onboard the Legend. At the end of four days, it was hard to say goodbye to friends and leave behind what had been an intense experience to board the flight back to Quito on the Ecuador mainland.