Nature at its best - Vancouver BC

Western Canada- Nature at its Best

Guess which North American city is nearest to the large Asian metropolises of Beijing, Shanghai, Tokyo, Seoul or Hong Kong; no, it isn’t Los Angeles, San Francisco or Seattle. It is Vancouver, Canada’s gateway to the world’s fastest growing region- the Asia Pacific, the economic powerhouse that will increasingly drive the global economy of the future. In terms of flying time, it is faster to travel to Vancouver than anywhere else in North America. Having heard much lately about the city that hosted the recent 2010 Winter Olympic Games I decided to come explore the scenic beauty of the province of British Columbia that proudly calls itself ‘Spectacular by Nature’ and to visit some of the highlights of multicultural Vancouver. And, having come this far, it makes good sense to travel to the Rockies and see some of the world’s most awesome mountain landscapes. Each year over a million people also pass through Vancouver on their cruise ship vacations bound for Alaska.

Vancouver International Airport is located about 15kms to the south of Vancouver in the suburb of Richmond and, as the aircraft descends, you can see the city bordered by the waters of the Pacific Ocean to the west and by snow covered mountains to the north. It is this unique scenic location that gives Vancouver both its sandy beaches and its ski hills, both within a few minutes drive of the city centre; also, this helps give the city the distinction of being the world’s most liveable city in 2010 according to The Economist magazine.

After Toronto and Montreal, Vancouver and the surrounding suburbs is the third largest city in Canada with a population of just over 2 million people. Although archaeological records show native people lived in the area for over 8000 years, the traditional cultures typically built homes and structures using wood so there are no grand monuments of stone that one can see. European settlement of the area began in the 1850’s and the city was Vancouver was officially formed as a municipality as late as 1886. Although people of English, Scottish, and Irish origins were historically the largest ethnic groups in the city followed by Germans, it is the Chinese who form the largest ethnic group in the city today. Other significant Asian ethnic groups in Vancouver are Indian, mostly from Punjab (commonly referred to as Indo-Canadian), Vietnamese, Filipino, Indonesian, Korean, Cambodians and Japanese.

Vancouver has neighbourhoods with distinct ethnic touches to them including historic Chinatown close to the downtown core, a Punjabi Market, Little Italy, Greek town, and even a Japan town.

Taxis, shuttle buses and a newly completed elevated metro rail system called the ‘Skytrain’ are easily available at the airport for the 20 minutes ride to the city’s downtown area. I had booked my accommodation through one of the large hotel booking websites and the Empire Landmark Hotel at about $100 per night seemed reasonable. It turned out to be located right in the heart of city’s downtown with excellent views, friendly service and within walking distance from several local attractions. A phone call to the hotel concierge next morning set me up for a full day Vancouver sightseeing conducted tour which is perhaps the best way to get a quick overview of the city’s top highlights. Most visitors to the city see Stanley Park, Queen Elizabeth Park, VanDusen Gardens, Capilano Suspension Bridge and the mountains, sea beaches, forest trails and parklands that surround the city.

On my tour we had a minibus load of travellers from places as far apart as Chile, South Africa, Sweden and Thailand and a friendly driver-guide who gave us excellent background information as we visited Canada Place, Robson Street, the Vancouver Public Library built somewhat like the Colosseum in Rome, Chinatown and historic Gastown with its steam run clock. We stopped in Prospect Point in Stanley Park for photographs and then continued onwards to Cleveland Dam and the Capilano Bridge in the North Vancouver rainforest where I crossed the 450-ft-long suspension bridge over a spectacular gorge. Later, we drove to Granville Island with its public market, shops, restaurants and galleries along the False Creek sea front. Denman Street, a few minutes walk away from my hotel, had a great variety of restaurants ranging from African, Greek, Italian, Indian, Mongolian, Afghan, Thai, Vietnamese and Iranian to choose from so whether you wish to try out some top quality international cuisine or grab a slice of pizza, it is all easily available here.

The city of Vancouver is a very convenient base for making day trips to the ski and mountain resort of Whistler and to Victoria, capital of the province of British Columbia. Whistler is a ski and mountain resort 120 kms and two hours drive north of Vancouver along the very scenic ‘Sea to Sky’ highway. Most events of the 2010 Winter Olympics were held in Whistler and the drive (or a fully catered rail journey on the Rocky Mountaineer train) to Whistler on the road that hugs both the coast and the mountains certainly was a highlight of the trip; it is simply spectacular with views of the snow covered Tantalus mountain range, the extinct Garibaldi volcano, the ocean dotted with islands, steep forest covered mountain slopes, fast flowing rivers and the impressive Shannon Waterfalls.

A guided sightseeing day trip to Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, located on nearby Vancouver Island, is also easily arranged with any of the regular tour companies. More than the sights of Victoria itself, I found the 90 minutes ferry cruise from the mainland to Vancouver Island through beautiful Active Pass past several of the Gulf Islands to be very enjoyable. Our guide told us that it is quite common for families of Orcas or killer whales to be seen feeding in the sea here. If you are keen on seeing these ocean mammals, whale watching tours depart daily from the Inner Harbour of Victoria near the Parliament Building. Victoria is known for its wildlife viewing, especially in the waters that surround the city. The nearby islands host large numbers of elephant seals, sea lions, harbour seals and seabirds which are easily seen from the beaches of the city and while we did not see any whales, I saw several harbour seals and sea lions in Vancouver and Victoria.

Having had a glimpse at the more populated and better known part of Western Canada, it was time to head inland to the Rocky Mountains. While it is easy to rent a car complete with GPS device for easy route finding and do the tour privately, there are a few coach tour companies that operate three and four day fully guided tours. A more luxurious option is to take the two days trip aboard the Rocky Mountaineer train.

Heading east from Vancouver on the Trans Canada Highway connecting Canada’s Pacific and Atlantic coasts, we were on the world's longest national highway with a length of 7,821 km. We drove past the tulip, corn and berry fields of the fertile Fraser Valley before starting our climb to the Coquihalla Pass and then to the interior city of Kamloops. Visiting Wells Gray Park and Helmcken waterfalls on the way, we stopped at Mount Robson, the highest peak of the Rockies before arriving in Jasper the following day.

Some of the best-known mountain scenery on earth is concentrated in a set of seven parks in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. The most scenic sections of the Canadian Rockies are protected by number of national parks. Indeed, in much of the world, mention of Canada means images of snow-capped peaks and green wilderness. More than nine million people annually visit the many nature parks located along the Alberta-British Columbia province border. Amongst these, four national parks— Banff, Jasper, Yoho and Kootenay are all World Heritage Sites though world famous Banff and Jasper National Parks are the best known. Jasper National Park is the largest and most northerly Canadian rocky mountain national parks, while to the south, Banff National Park is one of the world's most visited natural attractions.

Connecting the two parks is the Icefields Parkway, one of the world’s most spectacular mountain highways. Driving on this scenic highway, our coach made a stop at the Athabasca Glacier which is close enough for you to be able to walk on with ease. With photo stops to view the Columbia Icefields, the Bow and Crowfoot Glaciers and Peyto Lake we finally arrived at the shores of Lake Louise.

Nothing quite prepares you for the jaw dropping beauty of Lake Louise, nearby Moraine Lake and the town of Banff. On a clear day, the deep blue sky, the jagged snow covered peaks, the turquoise waters of the glacial lakes and the forest covered mountain slopes together make up a picture postcard scene. Although, our tour company allowed us a complete day to enjoy these magnificent surroundings, it would be very easy to spend several days in the towns of Banff and Canmore visiting the many natural wonders and viewpoints.

All too soon, my tour was at an end and I was headed back to Vancouver for the long journey home.

QUICK FACTS:

WHY GO THERE: With its multi-ethnic society, Vancouver is a city with its sights set to the Asia Pacific region. Apart from being an incredibly beautiful cosmopolitan city with a range of attractions, it is also a North American city where one would want to set up business and commercial ties for future growth.

GETTING THERE: Major Asian airlines offer flights to Vancouver via the Far East. European airlines like British Airways, Lufthansa, KLM offer daily flights through Europe. Air India and Jet Airways offer flights to Vancouver via Toronto or London.

VISAS: Visa applications are received by VFS at any of the ten application centres across India. www.vfs-canada.co.in/ . All applications are finally assessed at The Canadian High Commission in Delhi or the Consulate General in Chandigarh. Information necessary to apply for a temporary resident (tourist) visa for Canada is available on the website.

WHERE TO STAY: It is easy to book hotels and domestic air travel within Canada online. The Canadian Tourism website www.canada.travel has a wealth of information and facts. I made my travel arrangements directly with www.brewster.ca. and booked hotels online on travelocity.

Previously published at MONEYLIFE in January 2011 . . .


http://www.moneylife.in/article/nature-at-its-best/13523.html

Darjeeling: Steaming through the Eastern Himalayas

Steaming Through the Eastern Himalayas

The passenger train to Darjeeling is scheduled to leave New Jalpaiguri railway station at nine every morning. It takes more than an hour to prepare the aging, century-old steam engine for its journey up the slopes of the eastern Himalaya. If you reach the station early, you will find the fireman shovelling coal into the firebox to build up a head of steam while the engine driver adjusts the shiny brass valves.

As the station master rings the platform bell, the Darjeeling Passenger train number 52541 hauled by one of the last remaining steam engines in India pulls away with an throaty whistle, clouds of steam and a shower of coal cinders. The train connects villages spread along the mountain slopes and provides the cheapest means of moving locally grown produce from the villages to the bigger towns of Darjeeling and Siliguri.

I stand near the open door with my feet carefully planted between baskets of fresh spinach and sacks of cabbages hoping to catch both the breeze and the view. It is about 80 kms from the humid plains of north Bengal to Darjeeling, 6800 feet up in the eastern Himalaya and it takes all of seven hours to make the journey.

As the age of steam locomotives comes to a close in India, the Darjeeling Hill Railway’s fan club grows bigger by the day with active chapters as far away as the UK, the US and Canada. The construction of the railway was started by Franklin Prestage in 1879 and completed up to Tindharia in March 1880. By the year end, it was constructed up to Kurseong and the line reached Darjeeling in July 1881.The small town of Tindharia (Three Streams), not far from Jalpaiguri, is home to the pre-industrial workshop where the Darjeeling trains, with names like Mountaineer, Green Hills and Meghdoot, are repaired. All were built between 1892 and 1925 in some long forgotten Glasgow factory.

Darjeeling and the dozens of villages that dot the fertile slopes around it did not exist 175 years ago. By trickery and political manoeuvre, an official of the East India Company acquired the Darjeeling hill from the Chogyal of Sikkim in 1835 and it gradually grew to become the summer retreat of the British.

To return to our journey, the three bright blue carriages attached to the aging Mountaineer overflow with eager Bengali tourists. As we sway and wheeze past Tindharia and Sevoke, the flat rice paddy gives way to the first tea plantations. At this low altitude, only the strong Assam tea varieties grow. The train passes within feet of the houses that line the tracks and young children on the train stick their arms out and playfully touch residents as they go about their chores.

The mainly Nepali speaking people, who inhabit the lower and middle slopes, have a strong tradition of growing flowers. Each of the tiny, tin-roofed dwellings, that precariously sit between the railway track and steep slopes, have neat rows of old Dalda ghee, Amul milk powder and Nestle baby cereal ‘dabbas’ (containers) carefully planted with brightly coloured marigolds, chrysanthemums and nasturtiums.

The thickly forested lower slopes with their towering hardwood trees gives way to the first plantations of the famous Darjeeling tea as we near Kurseong, exactly half way along the journey to Darjeeling. The engine is detached from the carriages and re-supplied with coal and water. The passengers invade the cafeterias on either side for sweet tea, samosas and biscuits.

It is noticeably cooler as we have climbed about 4,800 feet from the plains and the tourists from lowland Bengal don woollen jackets, caps, socks and gloves. Evenings come early in the eastern parts of the country and it is twilight by the time we reach Darjeeling at 4.30 pm and I drive to the warm comfort of the heritage New Elgin hotel. The last 12 kms of the rail line runs beside a road, virtually a race track, packed with drivers of 1950s vintage, British-built Land Rovers and nippy Maruti vans all trying to push each other off the tarmac and into the path of the steadily advancing train.

Darjeeling town is spread along a ridge and on a clear day, the snowy massif of the 28,400 feet high Kanchenjunga and its equally impressive neighbours loom in the distance. The land falls away steeply on either side, planted a century or more ago with mainly tea bushes. The graceful conical Cryptomeria tree, a native of Japan was introduced in Darjeeling in the last century and is now the dominant species that typifies the Darjeeling skyline.

The Lower Bazaar is where the locals shop, a maze of crowded narrow lanes lined with tiny shops. There are steep alleys lined with stores that only sell steel and copper utensils and winding lanes lined with shops full of large sacks of bright coloured spices and lentils. Fruit and vegetable stalls selling the best Assamese pineapples, Sikkimese oranges and crisp fresh vegetables from nearby kitchen gardens, occupy another section of the market. On the other side of Darjeeling are located the Tibetan Refugee Centre and the colourful Bhutia Basti monastery.

Most tourists limit themselves to the 'Mall', a common feature of all Indian hill resorts, where the usual photography and woollen clothing stores are located. The road leading to Chowrasta, the town centre of Darjeeling, is lined with stalls owned by very persuasive Tibetan ladies selling the very latest in brand name clothing, footwear and electronics. The Oxford Book Shop in Chowrasta is one of the best bookstores that I have come across with shelves packed with rare out of print books on the early Himalayan explorations of the area.

I am woken up at 4 a.m. the following morning by the hotel night watchman. I put on a layer of woollens and throw on a cap and gloves before stepping out into the freezing darkness and we drive towards Tiger Hill. The sky is turning pale by the time we cover the 14 kms and start steeply climbing the last few bends to the windy 'view point' where I join a few hundred keen tourists shuffling in the bitter cold, all waiting for the sun to light up Kanchenjunga. It is a grand and spectacular view every bit worth the discomfort of the cold and the effort of the early rise. Someone points out the distant black pyramid of Everest before we drive back visiting Ghoom monastery enroute .

I hire a jeep to Tonglu, a tiny hamlet on the Singalila Ridge, a three hour drive away and 10,000 feet up on a ridge, from where, I am told, there are even better views of Kanchenjunga. The Singalila Ridge runs straight south from Kanchenjunga and forms the natural border between India and Nepal.

The drive is memorable. The rhododendrons are in bloom in May and entire slopes are coloured deep pink and red, broken by the cream and white of the magnolia flowers. The 'road', actually a cobbled stone pony trail now in a state of disrepair, is so steep in sections that our driver needs all the available low gears of his aging four wheel drive jeep to coax it up the last few bends.

Immediately past Tonglu, the dirt road crosses over to the Nepalese side and you arrive in Tumling that has a few comfortable lodges to spend the night.

The first rays of the rising sun strike Kanchenjunga soon after five the next morning. The mountain appears painted in brilliant gold and the views are both impressive and remarkable. The 28,400 feet high mountain lies only 40 kms away and its enormous white bulk fills the western horizon. It is definitely worth the night spent in the simple Tumling lodge.

I return to Darjeeling the next day and drive onwards through tea plantations to Kalimpong and another heritage property, the well known Himalayan Hotel. Kalimpong was once busy with traders from the neighbouring kingdoms of Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet, Sikkim and the state of Bengal. This market town prospered until the early 1960s when the India-China war sealed the borders and ended the valuable cross-border trade. Kalimpong has since rediscovered itself as the plant and orchid nursery capital of India.

It has been an enjoyable tour. Friendly people, tropical valleys, cultivated green hills and towering snow peaks sums up a little of what I have seen. Gangtok and the sights of Sikkim await another visit to this fascinating part of India.

QUICK FACTS:

WHY GO THERE: One of the most scenic parts of eastern India, a trip to Darjeeling and the neighbourhood will give you an insight into the peace loving blend of Hindu and Buddhist traditions that flourishes in the towns and villages of the mist-shrouded pine and fir forests of this district.

GETTING THERE: The shortest route is to fly to Bagdogra airport or else take an express train to New Jalpaiguri. From both places, private or shared taxis are available for the 90 kms three hours drive to Darjeeling.

WHERE TO STAY: Hotel accommodation and local travel arrangements are best arranged online. A list of hotels is available at the Darjeeling Tourism website- http://www.darjeeling.gov.in/hotel.html. Local transport can easily be booked either through your hotel or a local Darjeeling tour operator.

To read more, please note, this was first published at Moneylife in March 2011
http://www.moneylife.in/article/darjeeling-steaming-through-the-eastern-himalayas/14690.html