Showing posts with label Indian Railways. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Indian Railways. Show all posts

Tuesday, 12 July 2011

Indian Railways - Delhi/Bangalore/Kottayam/Cochin/Bangalore/Delhi

Quick take on my last rail journey, photos are on my flickr pages, next one is Delhi/Patna/Jamalpur/Delhi.

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Hazrat Nizamuddin to Yasvantpur by Karnatak Sampark Kranti Express

I selected this train mainly because not having travelled on the Hyderabad-Bangalore line, the urge to do so during the daylight hours was imperative, and only this train gave me the opportunity. In addition, the SK Express trains have fewer stoppages en route, and that is important for me too, lesser too-and-fro of new people en route..

Departure Nizamuddin early in the morning at 0645, usual chaos at the station outside with taxiis/autos blocking the whole area, there are many arrivals into this station in the morning, Made it to the Platform 7 just a few minutes before the train started rolling, departure boards don't work too well at what used to be a premium railway station at one time, and the whole area is a disgrace. Train was stopped right after it started rolling, and then left at about 0650, trundling or rather ambling along through the garbage which is a constant all the way to Agra.

Electric engine, my coach was towards the rear, and I could not get numbers or type. Maybe the photos I have up at http://www.flickr.com/vm2827 will help.

I was travelling in Second Sleeper class, weather report promised good monsoon weather after Agra, but we were about 2 hours late by the time we reached Agra, and the sun was really hot and out. Got a decent shot of train over train just before we entered Agra. Stopped on one of the non-platform tracks and overtook the Nizamuddin-Kolhapur train there.

The reason for this delay was the usual congestion ex-Delhi and some heavy work just before Agra. Anycase, after Agra, the train started really pelting, and the weather improved to cloudy with drizzle and some thundershowerrs too. First stop Jhansi, after which we overtook the Punjab Mail at a wayside station, and then crossed the returning Shatabdi well before Bhopal.

Some UP Police staff boarded the train on their way to Bhopal, and tookover some seats and berths in an arrogant manner, which people tolerate because I guess that is what we are. Police travelling is a regular feature on this route, but nowhere else are they as rude towards poor people.

We were still about 90 minutes late into Bhopal, after which it became dark on our way to Nagpur.

Travelling by Sleeper Class after a long time, this coach was in good shape, recently disinfected so absolutely no insects or rodents and most everything in good shape. Some rowdies had destroyed the recharge points in ALL the coaches. Wheel noise was minimal, actually the fans made more hum, and full marks to the cleaning and sanitation crew en route.

Quaity of food served onboard is miserable, regular travellers seem to know it, and either bring their own or order ahead - delivery onboard is done in Bhopal and Nagpur, as I observed.

After Bhopal starts the beautiful dark part of India, including a banker (two more electrics . . .) episode which was done very rapidly at a small wyside station, where we got the most amazing jamuns. It is pitch dark here, and I got good cooperation from people, asking them to switch off lights so that we could see the stars. - and pointing some out to them. Was fast asleep while the train was at Nagpur, but some youngsters who had ordered pizza delivery gently woke me up to offer me a slice.

Had a very comfortable sleep with brilliant cool weather throughout. Woke up next morning at Kazipet, where the train has a technical stop, and is boarded by a large number of official looking people, mostly security forces travelling in civilian clothes, who distribute themselves over the train. They do not look too happy or confident.

Train ambled into Kacheguda about 30 minutes behind schedule, slowing down a lot on the byepass line, and then stopped there for a good 30 minutes as the traction was changed to diesel. Kacheguda Station is very impressive, very clean, and serves good breakfast - simple idlis, vadas and dosas. Matter of fact, all stations on this route are kept very clean, and serve some decent fresh cooked food or the other. Lemon rice, channa vadas, lassi, coconut water, and fresh fruit. None of the pudi-aaloo samosas reheated multiple times.

Once out of Hyderabad, it was flat terrain, hot and sunny till Kurnool, after which the weather and terrain changed to green and rocky minor mountains. At Dharmavaram we were slightly ahead of time despite single line halts, there was a huge contingent of forces who were camped apparently standing bye for something, probably to do with Sai Baba's ashram. The SK Express does not take the loop to the Ashram P Nilayam,so we continued on direct through Penugonda and Hindupur, finally coming to a long halt at Yelahanka,so that the train could enter Yasvantpur about on time.

Notes:-

1) Eunuchs are found on three sectors here: ex-Delhi, ex-Hyderababd and prior Bengaluru.
2) There appears to be atleast 3-4 hours slack built into the timetable for this train.
3) Indian railways should really think of taking feedback from Sleeper Class pax also.
4) Something has to be done about the food served onboard. It appears to be a waste lugging the pantry car all the way.
5) The garbage along track situation is terrible. Some shram dan or solution has to be found. Tea-coffee should go back to kullads, and garbage disposal needs to be controlled.
6) Something is very wierd with the waiting list system. This train was shwoing full in all classes for months in advance but was actually running at about 80% occupancy - even lower after Hyderabad.
7) Quality of coach external paint is terrible - this is done by hand now? Even the straight lines are wavy.

Next leg: Yasvantpur to Kottayam by GR.

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YPR to Kottayam/12257 GR and Eranakulam Jn to SBC /16316 BLR Exp

Opening Note:- Apologies for "combo Trip Report" but both journeys were night trains, so slept through much.

1) Getting to Yasvantpur RS from South Bangalore is a big feat, takes 90 minutes by car/taxi/auto, including about 30 minutes for the last 2 kilometres, due to Metro construction, please plan accordingly. Once at the Station, the chaos is left behind, and we make it to the train. Full green rake, all coaches fit for 130kmph, and must say this- excellent job in cleanliness. We were in S/15, almost at the tail, which I like - with 2 lower berths thanks to good advance planning and some book/unbook episodes which are part of learning curve.

Air conditioning was on in advance - fully chilled. Food on platform - veg biryanii = 40/- and egg biryani = 50/-, both of which were tried out and very tasty too. Water, tea and coffee service, and no eunuchs or beggars throughout. Bedroll dispersal was efficient, 1 attendant per 2 coaches, thoiugh you have to stand in line to get it = 25/- rupees for blanket+sheet+pillow case+pillow. Please remember to carry change. Sheets and pillow case were good, pillows showed age and blankets were so-so. Lot of fibre flying out of the blankets.

12257 Gr from Yasvantput to Kochuveli left dot on time, 2100/26jun'11, and crawled through to the next station, which is BANASWADI, where majority of the passengers seem to board. The Yasvantpur departure was on the left side, and Banaswadi is on the right side, which creates problems of the "where is the chart" sort.

The train was under diesel for the complete passage (till Kottayam atleast). The schedule leaves enough space for lower speeds and before time arrivals which also means very comfortable sleep. There has to be something about the sound proofing and insulation on the GR, which along with larger number of people in the coach, gives for a comfortable ride - have seldom slept so well. Air quality was also better than other trains, as an ex-asthamatic I am a walking judge of this aspect.

Food along the route is so-so, on our journey, prettiest parts are near Palghat/PALAKAD. Many people disembarked and embarked at THRISSUR. Cochin Town (also known as Ernakulam North and ERN) is a sleepy station compared to its Big Brother Eranakulam South/ERS/Eranakualam Junction). After this, the train winds its way through a single line section, with what looks like a cross at every station along the way. Some doubling is visible and you can get a good glimpse of Cochin Airport.

I would like to place this journey amongst the best we have had, value for money as well as overall cleanliness, once again, the toilets were clean to start with as well as cleaned en route. One observation - the coaches may need to be fitted with the blue night lights, otherwise it gets very dark at night.

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No departure by train from Cochin can commence without a great discussion with friends and the driver on the whole business of the way the two stations have been named. One is Ernakulam Town also known as Ernakulam or Cochin North and ERN. the other is known as Eranakulam Junction or Eranakulam South/Cochin South and ERS. In addition, the city signboards differ in their spelling, and at one stage, MG Road vanishes into a collection of potholes that by magic becomes variously known as Station Road and similar. Since there is a Station Road even at the beginning of the Bypalli Byepass, you can have great fun if you are from out of town.

We were on 16316/Bangalore Express from Eranakulam ERS to Bangalore City SBC. Here is another interesting observation - there are three "Bangalore Express" trains on the same date on this route. Maybe they could rename them somehow. Due to planning issues, the LOH was in AC2T with a lower berth and I was in 2nd Sleeper on RAC.

We had a good clean decent meal at the IRCTC cafe and food plaza on Platform 1, veg+non-veg options plus soup+softdrinks+desserts+two bottles of water for below 150/- rupees, really stuffed ourselves, and 16316 arrived on time, also on Platform 1. Electric engine from ERODE, I think it was 30286, lost the paper I was taking notes on. AC2T is 5th from engine and S7 was 4 more behind. The AC2T coach was ancient, and the sleepers coaches were mostly ancient (though S-10 was brand new or atleast looked like it had all the new fittings) and the whole train had a depressed feel about it.

Sure enough, as soon as we departed, a procession of beggars were with us till Thrissur. Through the night it was peaceful and running on time, though the driver ws a horn artist, and next morning, more beggars and eunuchs got onboard at what looked like a semi-planned unscheduled halt for no reason at a point just before the double line starts, and then it was a procession of disfigured beggars, eunuchs and harmonium+singers.

It is only tea and coffee on this route. Before Bangalore we must have been following a local train as we stopped at every small station, and then the train stopped for 20 minutes at WHITEFIELDS to let another long distance train overtake us. Ambled through, and arrived on time, almost.

COMESUM at Bangalore City is only semi-functional till 1100, and not even cleaned, big disappointment - even the dosa was soggy. The taxi-auto fake "official" fare chart game is doing well at the Platform 1 side of SBC, please be careful, even the traffic cops will "advise" you to negotiate. In reality, plenty of good buses are available from MAJESTIC side, there is also a free connecting bus every 10 minutes from station, and the 3-wheeler auto prepaid booth is cleverly disguised without any boards - but if you ask, you will be pointed in that direction. MERU and other radio-cabs don't prefer to serve Railway Stations, it seems.

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End note - the quality of the Sleeper coach I was in (S7) and the absolute total lack of cleanliness also meant processions of cockroaches throught he night. Garib Rath wins hands down, for now.

Next- YPR to DEE by Duronto in Ac2T starting tomorow 02jul11.

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12213 YPRYasvantpur Bangalore to DEE Delhi Sarai Rohilla Duronto

So finally, getting to try the Duronto Express train, and I almost did not make it because come 2nd of July at Bangalore, I was down with this most amazing 'flu, almost without energy. Anyways, the waiting list ticket 36 in AC2T confirmed itself at charting, with a comfortable Upper Berth (A2-28), so well in time and allowing for bad traffic, took a MERU cab to YPR to reach there almost 2 hours in advance.

The Duronto is scheduled to depart from Platform 6, which obviates the need to climb stairs, if you get dropped on that side. The 12649 Sampark Kranti for H. Nizamuddin pulled out from PF 6 while I was there, about 10 minutes behind schedule, and then around 2245 the empty rake of the 12213 Duronto for DEE was backed in. A2 is towards the end of this train, with a pantry car separating it and the rest of the train from the H1 coach.

Full marks to YPR for cleanliness. The GR the week before and now this Duronto, spanking clean, thank you.

Before this, I was busy trying to analyse the charting / waiting list confirmation / upgrading board at YPR for our train. Very interesting, it scrolls through W/L position, name and final position with all the little codes for HO and other stuff. Some lucky people who were original position W/L 1-5 on AC2T had been upgraded to 1AC. The rest, it was interesting, many people who had been confirmed were with single names like "Khan", "Kumar", "Preeti" and similar. Also, people down in the waiting list had been confirmed, while many in the middle had not - this is for AC3T.

YPR does not have a bookshop, and the food part is minimal, anycase I had some back-up food from home. Just as well. Next day's breakfast was so-so, lunch was inedible and by dinner time I asked the pantry car guys to just give me some boiled eggs and rotis. Zero marks for food on this train. Throw salt into everything appears to be the skillsets. Might as well announce that S'Bad will be a technical stoppage and that good food will be available there in both directions.

Train rolled out of YPR dot on schedule at 2345. For company I had a family of Tibetans, who were very polite and offered me my choice of berths, I stayed with my Upper and went to sleep soon thereafter. I have no idea what route the train took at night, but it just sort of ambled along without too much rock and roll and jostle on the RCF hybrid coaches which were marked "fit for 160 kmph". Woke up in the morning near the atomic nuclear power plant, and then ambled into Secunderabad via Begumpet side at 0908. Train was there for a good 22 minutes, during which time most people stocked up at the very efficient platform.

The AC2T coach in this train has 52 berths, including some very unfortunate ones right at the end of the train near the door, and I think IR needs to be told that squeezing more and more people into AC2T is not a good idea.

Once out of Secunderabad, I fell asleep again, and slept through till Nagpur, where we were alongside for 9 minutes, 1628-1637. Got some photos after this, and was really unwell, so fell asleep till next morning - when I woke up it was going dead slow near Faridabad. Had some faint memories of the train really rocking at high speeds around dawn.

Now from Faridabad onwards this Duronto became a real slow passenger. Gave "pass" to everything, and finally changed over to the Delhi Avoiding Line well before Nizamuddin, rolled through extremely slowly past Lajpat Nagar, Sewa Nagar, Delhi Safdarjung, Brar Square and then into the mess that is the approaches to Delhi Sarai Rohilla.

DEE deserves special mention as a station to be avoided at all costs. If possible. Why the once-a-week Duronto to Bangalore has been blessed with DEE is debated enough - but some effort has to be made to move this train out. Maybe the authorities can consider Anand Vihar ANVT as an option, it will serve the South Indian population of East Delhi who have no other train.

What do I think of the Duronto concept? Personally, the point-to-point aspect is the best, for me. High speed is not a major parameter, given safety aspects. High density coach configuration is a down-side. Food is so subjective an issue. The timings for this train could be amended to be one night.

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Previously also published by me at http://forum.irfca.org/forumdisplay.php/28-Trip-Reports

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Sunday, 26 June 2011

Delhi to Bangalore - leg 1 of train based vacation June/July 2011

This is the first part of the train journey based travel, summer 2011, that I undertook. As with most things in life, the planned trip is Delhi - Bangalore - Kottayam/Kerala - Cochin/Kerala - Mangalore - Bangalore - Thivim/Goa and thence back to Delhi. In all classes and kinds of trains.

The first leg is by 2nd Sleeper non-aircon on the Hazrat Nizamuddin - Yasvantpur Karnatak Sampark Kranti Express, IR number 12650. The Sampark Kranti series of trains provide fast connections between States and Delhi, with minimal stoppages en route in other states. This is a great boon for those who know what it is like on Indian Railway trains, especially for en route passengers causing joy to the long-distance passengers.

Also posted by me on the IRFCA forums here:-
http://forum.irfca.org/showthread.php/7590-Hazrat-Nizamuddin-to-Yasvantpur-by-Karnatak-Sampark-Kranti-Express

Photos are up here, this is my favourite from the trip, there are many more in th stream near it:-

http://www.flickr.com/photos/vm2827/5868245063/in/photostream

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This leg performed solo. Company included youngsters heading to join work in Bangalore, a retired Air Force person travelling home after meeting family in Delhi and a school teacher off with her son who was also joining work. And a space cadet.
I selected this train mainly because not having travelled on the Hyderabad-Bangalore line, the urge to do so during the daylight hours was imperative, and only this train gave me the opportunity. In addition, the SK Express trains have fewer stoppages en route, and that is important for me too, lesser too-and-fro of new people en route.
Departure Nizamuddin early in the morning at 0645 on the 23rd of June 2011, my son dropped me, and I took his rayBan sunglasses along with me, wise decision. The usual chaos at the station outside with taxiis/autos blocking the whole area, there are many arrivals into this station in the morning, quite a feat to wade through.

Made it to the departure Platform 7 just a few minutes before the train started rolling, departure boards don't work too well at what used to be a premium railway station at one time, and the whole area is a disgrace. Train was stopped right after it started rolling, and then left at about 0650, trundling or rather ambling along through the garbage which is a constant all the way to Agra.
Electric engine, WAP4, my coach was towards the rear, and I could not get number.  Maybe the photos I have up at http://www.flickr.com/vm2827 will help.
I was travelling in Second Sleeper class, weather report promised good monsoon weather after Agra, but we were about 2 hours late by the time we reached Agra, and the sun was really hot and out. Got a decent shot of train over train just before we entered Agra. Stopped on one of the non-platform tracks and overtook the Nizamuddin-Kolhapur train there.
The reason for this delay was the usual congestion ex-Delhi and some heavy work just before Agra. Anycase, after Agra, the train started really pelting, and the weather improved to cloudy with drizzle and some thundershowerrs too. First stop Jhansi, after which we overtook the Punjab Mail at a wayside station, and then crossed the returning Shatabdi well before Bhopal.
Some UP Police staff boarded the train on their way to Bhopal, and tookover some seats and berths in an arrogant manner, which people tolerate because I guess that is what we are. Police travelling is a regular feature on this route, but nowhere else are they as rude towards poor people.
We were still about 90 minutes late into Bhopal, after which it became dark on our way to Nagpur. The Bhopal - Itarsi - Nagpur stretch is full of forests, and some day needs to be done during the day, too.
Travelling by Sleeper Class after a long time, this coach was in good shape, recently disinfected so absolutely no insects or rodents and most everything in good shape. Some rowdies had destroyed the recharge points in ALL the coaches. Wheel noise was minimal, actually the fans made more hum, and full marks to the cleaning and sanitation crew en route.
Quaity of food served onboard is miserable, regular travellers seem to know it, and either bring their own or order ahead - delivery onboard is done in Bhopal and Nagpur, as I observed.
After Bhopal starts the beautiful dark part of India, including a banker (two more electrics . . .) episode which was done very rapidly at a small wayside station, where we got the most amazing jamuns to eat. It is pitch dark here, and I got good cooperation from people, asking them to switch off lights so that we could see the stars. - and pointing some out to them. Was fast asleep while the train was at Nagpur, but some youngsters who had ordered pizza delivery gently woke me up to offer me a slice.
Had a very comfortable sleep with brilliant cool weather throughout. Woke up next morning at Kazipet, where the train has a technical stop, and is boarded by a large number of official looking people, mostly security forces travelling in civilian clothes, who distribute themselves over the train. They do not look too happy or confident.
Train ambled into Kacheguda (Hyderabad) about 30 minutes behind schedule, slowing down a lot on the byepass line, and then stopped there for a good 30 minutes as the traction was changed to diesel. Kacheguda Station is very impressive, very clean, and serves good breakfast - simple idlis, vadas and dosas.Also a Cafe Coffee Day. Matter of fact, all stations on this route are kept very clean, and serve some decent fresh cooked food or the other. Lemon rice, channa vadas, lassi, coconut water, and fresh fruit. None of the pudi-aaloo samosas reheated multiple times.
Once out of Hyderabad, it was flat terrain, hot and sunny till Kurnool, after which the weather and terrain changed to green and rocky minor mountains. At Dharmavaram we were slightly ahead of time despite single line halts, there was a huge contingent of forces who were camped apparently standing bye for something, probably to do with Sai Baba's ashram. The SK Express does not take the loop to the Ashram P Nilayam,so we continued on direct through Penugonda and Hindupur, finally coming to a long halt at Yelahanka,so that the train could enter Yasvantpur (Bangalore) about on time.
Notes:-
1) Eunuchs are found on three sectors here: ex-Delhi, ex-Hyderababd and prior Bengaluru.
2) There appears to be atleast 3-4 hours slack built into the timetable for this train.
3) Indian railways should really think of taking feedback from Sleeper Class pax also.
4) Something has to be done about the food served onboard. It appears to be a waste lugging the pantry car all the way.
5) The garbage along track situation is terrible. Some shram dan or solution has to be found. Tea-coffee should go back to kullads, and garbage disposal needs to be controlled.
6) Something is very wierd with the waiting list system. This train was shwoing full in all classes for months in advance but was actually running at about 80% occupancy - even lower after Hyderabad.
7) Quality of coach external paint is terrible - this is done by hand now? Even the straight lines are wavy.
8) Cost of ticket 546/- booked online at http://www.irctc.co.in . . . bought food and water en route for about 300/- rupees.

Next leg: Yasvantpur to Kottayam (Kerala) by GR, with the lady wife, on the 26th night. What's GR? Read the next blog . . .

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Saturday, 28 May 2011

My Train to Pakistan 2004 - Part 1 - The Tribute







Where does one begin when trying to put down in words the unemotional but true rendition of what could well be the journey of a lifetime?

Previously published at The Chowk . . . 

and Outlook
http://www.outlookindia.com/article.aspx?223698









Tribute
Dad passed away on the 16th of February, earlier this year. I am now 47, had more than 70 countries under my belt before I was 27, but this trip with my 18 year old son was going to be different, like nothing else before.
PROLOGUE
Where does one begin when trying to put down in words the unemotional but true rendition of what could well be the journey of a lifetime? I am now 47, had more than 70 countries under my belt before I was 27, but this trip with my 18 year old son was going to be different, like nothing else before.


SENTIMENTS
My parents, along with a few truckloads of relatives, migrated from West Punjab, district Jhung, to a variety of places within India in 1947. Mom`s family was from the judiciary, Dad`s were feudal landlords. They were neighbours, and from different communities. The crossing was not easy, material goods were of course left behind, properties were burnt, people were misplaced, and lives were also lost. Dad was in the army so he had at least a salary, and naturally took charge of, at a modest estimate, about 150 people from his as well as my mother`s family . At the same time he had to relocate into new regiments, move with the troops in what was emerging as the 1948 conflict, and re-assemble family members scattered across the country in locations as diverse as Calcutta, Dhanbad, Ujjain, Delhi, Jalaandhar, Bombay, Ambala, Panipat, Poona, Roorkee, Shimla, Patiala . . . as well as try to work on the agricultural land alloted in exchange in Rohtak.


The one thing my mother asks all my Pakistani friends when they come visiting is to ask them if they can get her a copy of her degree certificate. That`s all.


RECENT PAST
Dad passed away on the 16th of February, earlier this year. He led a very full life, and by the time he left us, had squared up his accounts and made his peace with his Maker. The stories he had for those of his grandchildren who would listen were about the days of his youth and tales of Jhung, Lahore, Amritsar, Karachi, Multan, Murree, Shimla, Burma, Ceylon, Singapore, Chitagong, Alwar, Baluchistan, Peshawar, Kandahar, Bombay, Roorkee, Ramgarh, Nagaland, Hyderabad-Sindh, Sargodha, Rawalpindi, Srinagar, Leh, Gilgit, Manali, Poona, Danapur, Sitamarhi, Shillong, Gujranwalla . . . Syals, Maliks, Kuraras, Sufi lore, rivers and fields, temples, mosques, gurudwaras and churches, teachers and principals, first motorcycles and first cars and subsequent . . . All fulfilling stories.


The only responsibility he left us was that we were to look after my mother. When, after his final rites, on the way back from the final release of his ashes into the rapid flow of the Neeldhara at Hardwar, I broached the subject with my mother of my visiting Pakistan soon with my son--her grandson. She readily agreed, and in fact told me to get a move on. (Our daughter had already been to Pakistan about 5 years ago)


A few years ago, a source who does not wish to be identified here, told us that my father was the oldest and therefore senior-most surviving officer from his Baluch Regiment.


End-February, 2004A few days later, I saw a news article about open ended cricket visas for Indians. Uncle Google and a few keystrokes later, I look at the calendar, figure out dates, workloads, Raghuveer`s 12th Board exams, and buy on the web two tickets for the final Test at Rawalpindi. Forty pounds sterling for two seats in the Javed Miandad Stands of the Pindi stadium. The wonders of plastic and web.


A very very dear friend from Pakistan, currently in the US, is a fanatical fan of Javed Miandad`s. I am really, really looking forward to meeting up with him in Pindi. I have no wish to sit and watch cricket, I just want to meet my friend in his country, for a change.


I have not had a proper juicy meat kabab in a long, long time.


March and early-April, 2004I take the printout, send it to my son who is by now in the final laps for his 12th Board exams at faraway Lawrence School, Ooty, and make him a rash promise - after his exams are over in end March 2004, we shall drive from Lawrence/Ooty to Lawrence/Murree.


Starting around the third week of March, with enough mid-point peeling off by air by me to touch base with work in Delhi and Poona, I drive Poona to Ooty solo, pick him up, and then we drive Ooty to Bangalore to Belgaum to Goa, backtrack a bit up and down the West Coast, Mangalore, Karwar, Chiplun, Panvel, and reach Poona by early April, drive on to Bombay, from where we decide to fly to Delhi as we are already behind schedule.


The third Test is scheduled to start on the 13th of April, and it is already Friday the 9th of April. We are nowhere near getting visas ready or making bookings for travel or stay. Besides, I have not seen my wife for almost a month, since she has been busy travelling elsewhere too.


And summer has arrived, delightful roads have changed to shimmering tarmac in fields of white sand. Many people, I would say around 90%, are "warning" me against going.


It is going to be impossible to get a carnet for my car, so we hope to try for a "foot crossing" visa, which means we drive Delhi to Amritsar/Attari border, leave our India car there, and pick up a Pakistani car somehow from the Wagah/Lahore border. No sweat, I am also a motoring columnist, and there are cars lying in Delhi that need to be exercised.


Saturday 10th through Monday 12th April, 2004
Arrive in Delhi, recce Pakistan High Commission, discuss with friends who have already been to Pakistan on a "cricket visa", get inputs from friends in the media: the best way seems to be the "foot crossing" visa. Airline and bus is choc-a-bloc full, sold out. Train is terrible, miserable.
Reality, however, hits us when we land up at the visa counter on Monday the 12th, along with another few score loud, singing, joyous, Indians. The real Indians, the sort we all know have simply decided to have a great time, regardless. Most of them look like they do not know a fine leg from a chicken tangri--but never mind, what a silly point to make when love is in the air?


Forms properly filled, double checked, and the obnoxious surly man at the visa counter having a really bad hair day forcibly issues rail entry/exit visas to everybody. No foot-visa. No argument, no discussion. The reason, as much as I can tell, is because he is a sarkari babu and is used to Indians of a different sort--the absolutely poor variety (96%) who bow and cringe and beg and beseech for visas, and the absolutely rich and powerful (4%) whose visa forms come straight from inside anyway. So, now, who are these democratic, vocal and easily roused middle-class Indians making a fuss outside his little puddle, saying "tum" instead of "huzoor", talking loudly, arguing? Dikhao salon ko, go by rail.


Petty babus are the same everywhere. Why should those in the Pakistani High Commission at Delhi be different?


By evening, our Pakistan cricket visas (No Police Reporting, hurrah!) dated the 12th of April, valid for entry within 3 days from date of issue, and further valid for 8 days in Pakistan, are issued. Mine gives me all options (air/road/rail/foot) but Raghuveer`s visa is marked "rail only".


Tuesday 13th April, 2004The next train for Attari/Wagah/Lahore leaves on Wednesday the 14th, at 8pm, from Old Delhi. Tickets will be sold from 8am onwards on the same date only. There is no air-conditioned class--options are 2nd Class 3-tier sleeper for Rs 250/- and 2nd Class unreserved for no idea how much, probably a hundred rupees lesser.


We pack clothes, follow up on last minute addresses and phone numbers, organise money, inform invisible plastic women hidden behind credit card phone numbers that we may use their plastic in Pakistan, try for hotel bookings over the internet and fail, and get more dire warnings about all things Pakistani from those who have not been there. Those who have been there, on the other hand, are full of encouragement.


We shop for kaju barfi, anjeer barfi, hand made paper products, small gifts for people we may meet on the way, copies of magazines including those that I write for. We top up on basic medicines, the Sualins, the Hajmolas, the Brufens, the Pudin Haras and the deodarants. Toothpaste, toothbrush, lots of shirts and t-shirts. [What, no razors? No shaving cream? Ha! - Ed] And, of course, the separate list of official contacts in Pakistan, should we run into problems. Medical insurance? No time.


The best piece of advice I get from an old mate who went for the one-day party-time trips is to simply board the train, go with the flow, and worry about things when we reach Pindi. We also find out that the surly man has been replaced, and a nicer dude is issuing "foot crossing" visas to all who applied on Tuesday the 13th.


Wednesday 14th April, 2004. Home

We learn that our neighbours, who have gone to Panja Sahib with a group of Sikh pilgrims in jathas of about 3000 strong, are expected back in a day or two. Maybe we would meet them in Pindi? The thought of 3000 Sikhs running around in Rawalpindi is very intensely moving, for some reason.



The day goes by. More advice, courtesy relatives and friends and general well wishers: reach the station at least 3 hours early, there is bound to be a rush. So we finally leave home for Old Delhi Station, at about 6pm. By taxi, not by car, because the old Sikh drivers from the stand in front of our house are mostly from the Frontier area themselves, and will have it no other way.


Who cares about what is happening with cricket? Ten-sports is all about advertisements anyway.


Wednesday 14th April, 2004. Station, EveningWe are there in 45 minutes. As usual, I have a what is politely called a difference of opinion with the parking lot attendant, who insists on charging us for the privilege of unloading and disembarking. I promise him divine retribution and revenge when I return; he threatens me with his SPO card; I flash my media credentials; he sulks. Victory. I am feeling good. But on the way out, he hits the taxi driver for 10 rupees anyway. Now this taxi driver is in his 70s, has in my youth taught me how to clean carbs and take engines out as well as get extra performance from sleepy-slow-sluggish-lousy-gearbox-fistful-of-neutrals-dog- Ambassador cars. I run back towards the exit gate, take the parking receipt and pay for it. Obviously I have the upper hand, so the parking attendant withdraws again. Very Punjabi thing this: give a threat, and if it doesn't work, then run like hell. The parking attendant, who is a true Punjabi, does exactly that, and in his anger, starts harassing the poorer passengers by forcing their rickshaws outside.


Something happens at this point. I suddenly get this flash that this is not going to be yet another sentimental "I went to Pakistan and met all these lovely people in their drawing rooms and had booze and made love to their amazing poodle and/or carpet and came back" kind of gush-gush trip. I want this to be a purely observational trip, no sentiments. Mark Tully would have been proud. [What, he? No sentiments? Oh, well - Ed]


Wednesday 14th April, 2004. Station, 19:44 hoursThe pride of the Indian Railways, its only "international train". The Delhi-Attari stretch will be on its "blue outside and one inch thick dust inside" wagons. As usual, the platform lights go off at this instant, the charts have not been put up, cries of "which is S-1 or S-2" rend the air like plaintive bleats from sheep about to become wolves as we board and argue about my seat, your luggage, wrong chart, adjust with my cousin who is 9 carriages away please, don't forget the soda oye, Shunty (says Bunty), where are Tinkoo and Pinky? (All four of them, Shunty, Bunty, Tinkoo and Pinky are huge hulks, so we don`t hang around to find out.)


Instead, we end up making friends with some very decent Bahais who hail from Islamabad and are returning from Australia, and for some reason, find themselves on the same train.


The train leaves Old Delhi a few minutes late, around 8:15pm and gathers momentum outside while a state of inertia settles in inside. Passengers settle down for the night, luggage gets adjusted and people who were at war a few minutes earlier for territorial rights are now exchanging that old Indian train staple--the continuous night snack, sourced from that other railway wonder: the bottomless airbag.


We are on our way to Pakistan, this train runs or rather ambles non-stop from Old Delhi to Attari border, without a single halt in Punjab and just one technical halt at Ambala. About 500 kms in 8 hours, through the night.


MIDDLE EPILOGUE

I look out of the window as we race past the brightly lit refinery at Karnal, and wonder what happened on this same railway track, 57 years ago. At that very moment, the wheels scream like dervishes in anguish as they fight the bogies taking a high speed switchover. I get my answer.



My son is fast asleep on the upper berth, the innocence of youth heading for the joys of adulthood. For him and me, it is about bonding on a trip back to the land we have only heard about, a foreign land of my forefathers.
I pat my Indian passport reassuringly, wrapped in polythene and secured.